This wrap skirt could be part of a dress, or could work on its own.
It is a quick and easy pattern to make, as well as being a simple sew, as it doesn't require a zip or buttons (just one button hole).
I have included in-seam pockets in my pattern, but they can always be left out for an even quicker make.
Drafting the pattern
To draft a wrap-around skirt, start by drafting a basic skirt block. This is the longest part of the process, but once you have your block made, you will have it ready for all skirt and dress patterns in the future!
Once you have drafted the skirt, you can move to transforming the basic straight skirt into an A-line skirt.
This pattern needs to be cut as a full front (not "place on fold" as is often the case for skirt patterns) as the wrap extension extends beyond the centre front. You will need to create a full front pattern piece.
To do this, trace the original pattern and then flip the pattern over and trace the other side - ensuring the pattern is lined up with the centre front, waistline and hemline.
Work out how far you would like the skirt to extend beyond the centre front. As an indication of what works, I was making a size 10 and chose to extend by 12cm (which was just over halfway between the centre front and the right hand side of the pattern).
Draw a line, the length of the extension, on the right side of the pattern, perpendicular to the centre front.
Now, draw a line that is square with the waistline and passes through the endpoint of the line drawn in the previous step.
Continue the line until it intersects with the hemline.
Cut along the line to remove the excess. You now have your front pattern piece.
The next steps detail how to add an in-seam pocket. If you would prefer not to have pockets, skip through these steps, until it's time to add a facing to the skirt.
You will need to draft a pocket pattern. It is always good to have a standard pocket on stand-by. Once you have drafted it (which doesn't take long at all), you can then adapt it to any pattern with minimal fuss. And maybe you will become totally obsessed with pockets, like me, and put them in every piece you make!
Decide where you would like to place your pockets.
A good way of doing this is by holding the pattern up to your body, lining the waist of the pattern up with your actual waist, and placing your hands where you would like the pockets to go. Mark the location of where you would like the pattern to start, before removing the pattern.
As a rough guide, my pocket starts 7cm down from my waistline.
Take your pocket pattern and line it up the side seams, matching the top of the pocket with the mark indicating your pocket location.
Hold the pocket pattern in place and mark the point where the pocket ends, on the skirt side seam.
You can now remove the pocket pattern.
There are now two notches that show where you pocket will go.
Next, you will need to transfer the pocket notches onto the back pattern piece.
To do this, take the back pattern, and match it with the front pattern at the side seam - as if you were sewing the two seams together.
Transfer the notches onto the back pattern piece using a tracing wheel (or you may be able to see them through the paper and can simply mark them with a pencil).
Now that the pocket location is marked, you can move onto creating a facing for the front opening and the hemline, as well as creating a pattern for a waistband.
A facing is required to finish the front opening. The process is basically the same as drafting a pattern for a hem facing.
Take the front of your wrap skirt pattern and work out the desired width of your front facing. As a guide, I chose to make mine 9cm wide. I like to have sturdy facing that provides stability to the garment and hides all unfinished seams.
Mark the desired width close to the waistline and hem of the pattern (perpendicular to the line of the opening).
Join the endpoints of these lines with a straight line that runs right through the pattern.
This section is the centre front facing.
Trace the facing onto a separate piece of paper.
You can have a facing that is separate to the main skirt (simply add seam allowance to both patterns), but I prefer to attach facings to the main garment, when possible.
To do this, cut out the facing piece, flip it face down and line it up with the front pattern, as if you were sewing them together.
Once in position, tape in place.
When the pattern is cut out in fabric, this line will become a fold.
Once the centre front facing is drafted, you will need to draft a hem facing.
When these two facings are drafted, it is time to see how they will fit together. As the hem facing pattern was designed to be cut on the fold, some adjustments will need to be made for it to fit with the wrap skirt pattern.
Fold back the front facing (as it will lie in the finished garment), and place the hem facing in position. You will see there is a gap between the two.
Extend the hem facing so that it reaches the centre front facing.
There are a number of ways that the two pieces can meet. The above example shows one option. In this case, the hem facing would lie under the front facing and be stitched down.
If the fabric isn't too thick (in the case of the dress I made), you can make a hem facing that lines the entire hemline. The centre front facing can then be folded back on top of the hem facing. This can be hand or machine stitched in place.