In my last couple of posts I have been showing you how to trace a pattern from a ready made shirt.
So far in this series, I have gone through tracing a shirt pattern from an existing shirt and tracing the collar and stand patterns (if your shirt doesn't have a collar, and you would like to draft one from scratch, you can check out this tutorial).
This tutorial will guide you through making a placket, for the buttons and buttonholes, down the centre front of a shirt. It is much easier and more accurate to draft this pattern piece, rather than tracing it from an existing shirt.
For this tutorial you will need:
Some pattern paper.
And a tape measure.
Berfore you get started, you will need to decide on the width of the placket you will be making for your shirt.
Refer to another shirt if you need some guidance about an appropriate width. Remember, it needs to be wide enough to support your buttons.
You will also need to determine the length of your placket.
To do this, take the front pattern piece of the shirt you are making the placket for, and measure down the centre front, from neckline to hem.
Before drafting the placket pattern, have a look at a ready made shirt so you can understand how the pattern works.
It is basically a rectangular piece of fabric folded in intervals to conceal the opening of a shirt.
To draft the placket:
1. Draw a rectangle the length and width of the placket you are making.
2. Draw a second rectangle, next to the first, the same length and width as the original one.
3. Add seam allowance down both sides of the placket and along the top and bottom edge of the pattern. I would suggest a seam allowance of about 1cm.
Add cutting instructions to the pattern (cut 1 pair), and mark the centre line as a 'fold line.'
The next thing you will need to do is mark notches on both the placket pattern and the front of the shirt, to guide you when it comes to sewing the shirt.
The placket will lie on the centre front, with half of its width distributed on one side and half on the other.
Mark the line that will connect the front pattern to the placket pattern (this will be half the width of the placket in from the centre front).
Add seam allowance to this seam (make sure it is the same amount that you have added to the edge of the placket).
Lay the placket pattern onto the front pattern, as if you were sewing the two pieces together.
Remember, you may only have seam allowance on the top and bottom of the placket and not on the neckline and hemline of your shirt pattern (which is the case in the example), so make sure you line them up with this in mind.
Mark a couple (or more if you like) of notches along the seam.
Transfer them onto the pattern underneath with a tracing wheel.
Finish the placket pattern by transferring the same notches onto the other side of the placket, as well as notching the 'fold line' and marking the placement of the buttons.