I covered tracing the body of the pattern and tracing the sleeves. But then realised the post was getting far too long, and it needed to be broken up into a couple of different posts.
In today's post I will go through the process of copying the collar and stand.
For this tutorial, you will need:
A small piece of pattern paper.
And some dressmaking pins.
To start, take your piece of pattern paper and draw a vertical line. This line will be the centre back and grainline of your pattern.
Fold your collar and stand in half, and place a pin in the fold.
Now lay the centre of the collar and stand (marked by the pin), onto the centre back line drawn on the paper.
Hold in place with pins as shown.
Pin the collar and stand to the paper, by placing pins at regular intervals around both pieces.
With your tracing wheel, trace around the outside of the collar.
If you would prefer not to use a tracing wheel on your fabric (if it's delicate or fragile), just use a pin to mark the seam at regular intervals.
Trace around the collar stand.
Mark a balance point with a horizontal line (with the tracing wheel), about halfway along the seam that joins the collar to the stand.
This will be helpful when you get to sewing the two pieces together.
Remove the pins and the shirt from the paper.
The tracing wheel will have left small dots on the paper.
Take your pencil and a ruler and join the markings to make the outlines of the collar and collar stand.
Check that your stand is a uniform width throughout. Make sure that the curve at the centre front is smooth.
Also check that the collar is the same width from the centre back to around the notch point. After that it can slowly increase in width, towards the collar point. Make any necessary adjustments.
Trace the collar stand onto a separate piece of paper. Make sure you also transfer the notch.
You will also need to notch where the collar stand matches with the shoulder seam of the shirt, as well as the centre front.
To do this, "walk" the the stand along the neckline (as if you are sewing the two pieces together). The image above shows the process when "walking" in princess panels, but the process will be just the same.
Transfer the seam placements onto the stand pattern.
Add seam allowance. Keep it narrow (e.g. 6mm - 10mm) to ensure you will be able to sew the tight curve accurately.
To finish, add cutting instructions.
And next, we are on to the collar...
Trace the collar pattern onto a separate piece of paper. Be sure to transfer the notch.
Add another notch along the top edge, this will help when sewing the two pieces of the collar together.
For the collar you will need two separate pattern pieces - a 'top collar' and an 'under collar'.
Some commercial patterns will advise to just cut a pair of collars, but I was always told to make an extra piece for the under collar, so I am going to stick to what I know.
The reason for this, is that you want the under collar (when stitched) to hide neatly under the collar, with no sign of the stitching. It will give your collar a more professional finish.
To do this, you will need to make the under collar pattern slightly smaller than the top collar, which will accommodate "the turn of the cloth." Some people will do this after the fabric is cut (by cutting a pair of collars and then just trimming one back), but I prefer to just get it done at the pattern cutting stage.
The amount to remove from the edge of your under collar will depend on the type of fabric you are using. As I was using quite a thin cotton, I opted for 4mm (if you are using a thicker fabric you may need to trim back more). Remove this width from the top edge, and the opening of the collar, before tapering back to the original line ("zero") at the seam that joins with the stand.
Trace the patterns onto separate pieces of paper (remember to include both notches).
If you would like a more detailed explanation of this process, this is a great post to check out. I hadn't even thought about using this method on facings and pocket flaps (feel like a bit of a dummy who has just been "doing what I was told"), but definitely look forward to trying it on my next project.
Finish both collar patterns by adding seam allowance.
Once again, keep it narrow (e.g. 6mm - 10mm) to ensure that you will be able to get a nice clean finish when the patterns are sewn together.
Remember, the seam allowance on the bottom edge of the collar must be the same as the seam allowance on the top edge of the collar stand, as these seams are sewn together.
At this point you can also add cutting instructions.
There are a number of ways the under collar can be cut, and this will depend on your fabric choice and design.
Standard (cut on fold).
On the bias. This will make it easier to ease the under collar into the top collar.
On the bias with a centre back seam.
Now that your patterns are notched and labelled, there is just one more thing to do before you can dive in and get sewing!
You will need to mark where your collar ends when it is sewn into the collar stand.
To do this, take your collar stand and top collar patterns.
Place the collar stand onto the top collar pattern, as if you were sewing the pieces together (stitch line on top of stitch line).
Mark where the collar ends (the stitching line and not the edge of the pattern), with a notch on the stand.
And you are done!