Here at Em Makes Patterns Headquarters (i.e. my bedroom), this is the week of plackets!
I do apologise if plackets are not your thing, but if they're not, they should be, as they are a piece of cake!
The process for drafting this pattern is very similar to drafting an ordinary placket (if you followed the last tutorial, you will recognise a lot of the illustrations). The difference is that there is an extra section to the placket, which is what lies on top of the buttons, concealing them.
I don't have a shirt that I have made with a concealed button placket, here in London, so had to use a ready made one for the example. I think it always helps to refer to an actual piece of clothing when drafting technical elements of a pattern (like a placket). As you can see, the buttons are invisible when the shirt is buttoned up.
The buttons are hidden by the top layer of the placket.
Looking at the placket from this angle you can see how the folds work to conceal the under layer of the placket.
So now that we know how it works... On with the drafting!
For this tutorial you will need:
Some pattern paper.
And a tape measure.
As with the standard placket, first, determine the width that you would like your placket to be.
Refer to another shirt if you need some guidance about an appropriate width. Remember, it needs to be wide enough to support your buttons.
You will also need to determine the length of your placket.
To do this, take the front pattern piece of the shirt you are making the placket for, and measure down the centre front, from neckline to hem.
To draft the placket:
1. Draw a rectangle the length and width of the placket you are making.
2. Draw a second rectangle, next to the first, the same length and width as the original one. This is the point you would stop at if you were making a standard placket, but as you are wanting to conceal your buttons, you will need to add a couple more rectangles (step 3).
3. Draw two more rectangles (the same length and width as the first two) beside the original two.
Add seam allowance down both sides of the placket and along the top and bottom edge of the pattern. I would suggest a seam allowance of around 1cm.
The next thing you will need to do is mark notches on both the placket pattern and the front of the shirt, to guide you when it comes to sewing the pieces together.
The placket will lie on the centre front, with half of its width distributed on one side and half on the other.
Mark the line that will connect the front pattern to the placket pattern (this will be half the width of the placket in from the centre front).
Add seam allowance to this seam (make sure it is the same amount that you have added to the edge of the placket).
Lay the placket pattern onto the front pattern, as if you were sewing the two pieces together.
Remember, you may only have seam allowance on the top and bottom of the placket and not on the neckline and hemline of your shirt pattern (which is the case in the example), so make sure you line them up with this in mind.
Mark a couple (or more if you like) of notches along the seam.
Transfer them onto the pattern underneath with a tracing wheel.
To complete the placket:
1. Transfer the same notches onto the other side of the placket.
2. Mark the three lines in the middle as 'fold lines' and notch these lines at the top and bottom of the placket.
3. Add cutting instructions.
And voila, your placket is done!
Stay tuned for the following tutorials that will help you finish your shirt pattern.