Are you sick of plackets yet?
I know I am!
You are probably wondering then why I would be inflicting the pain of another one upon you. But my logic is to get it all over and done with in The Week of Plackets and then move onto more exciting things next week (well I guess it is a matter of opinion whether you think cuffs and pockets trump plackets on the Pattern Cutting Excitement Scale).
So just to re-cap, this week I have posted tutorials to guide you through two different styles of placket.
Today's tutorial will show you how to draft a placket that is connected to the body of the shirt, meaning there will be no seam between the placket and the shirt front.
This type of placket is particularly useful if you are using a printed fabric that would be very difficult to match if you had two separate pieces.
Without the seam, this is what the pattern of front of the shirt will look like, when folded.
When you get to the sewing stage, you will need to sew a line of top stitching, to secure the placket in place.
Okay, with dexplanations done, it is time to get onto drafting!
For this tutorial, you will need the usual supplies:
Some pattern paper.
And a ruler.
If you have already drafted a placket using one of the previous methods, there is no need to re-draft. Simply take the two pattern pieces (shirt front and placket pattern), and stick them together, eliminating the seam. This will work for both placket options (standard or concealed button option).
When sticking them together, make sure you match 'stitch line' to 'stitch line,' removing seam allowance from both pieces (if they have seam allowance added to them). Then your pattern is ready to go.
If you have not yet drafted the placket it is no problem.
Just like the other plackets I have shown you how to draft this week, the placket will lie on the centre front, with half of its width distributed on one side and half on the other.
Take the front of your shirt pattern, and trace a copy, or go on with the original if you'd like.
Mark the line that will connect the front pattern to the placket pattern (this will be half the width of the placket in from the centre front). This is the line that would ordinarily be a seam, but in this case will just be a stitch line. Label the endpoints of the line as points A and B.
Before moving onto the next step, you will need to decide on the width of your placket.
Refer to another shirt if you need some guidance about an appropriate width. Remember, it needs to be wide enough to support your buttons.
Draw a rectangle, the same length as the front of the shirt, and the width determined in the last step, next to line AB.
This section is the top side of the placket (the part that will be seen on the outside of the shirt) and is the section that the buttons and button holes will be sewn on.
Draw another rectangle (the same length and width as the first) next to the original rectangle (which I have labelled as "Placket top side").
This section will be the underside of the placket (the section that is folded back to support the top side of the placket).
Next, you will need to add seam allowance to the edge of the underside of the placket. Anything from 6mm - 1.5cm is sufficient. Just make sure the amount of seam allowance is the same width or less than the width of the placket.
The seam allowance will fold in under the underside of the placket as shown.
Mark the line between the topside of the placket and the underside as a fold line. Also mark the line between the underside of the placket and the seam allowance as a fold line.
Add seam allowance to any of the seams that do not yet have seam allowance (in the case of the example, all but the edge of the placket need seam allowance added).
Notch both ends of the fold lines, as well as either end of line AB.
And that's it! You're done!
I hope you have had a Happy Placket Week, but I am pleased to say it's officially over (except for a sneaky post about cuff plackets that will come next week).
If you really have a thing for drafting plackets,