I know I have made claims before, along the lines of "This pattern is the easiest pattern you will ever make." But I must take back all previous statements, and say that, drafting a patch pocket is actually the easiest pattern you will ever draft.
To many of you, this tutorial may be totally useless, but I felt I could not wrap up my 'Copying a Shirt pattern' series, without at least mentioning a patch pocket, because as I have said once (or twice), and will probably say another 432 times on this here blog, I love pockets.
Like selecting buttons, I normally try and wait until the end of the making process to decide on the size of my pockets. I find it difficult to visualise the scale by just looking at the paper pattern, and find it much easier to wait until the very end. This way you can make up a paper mock-up of the pocket and lay it on the shirt and get an idea of how it will look. Then you can ask yourself, is it too big? Too small? The right shape? The right type of pocket? Should it have a flap? Is it in the right position? Should there be one? Or two? You get my gist?
So to get started, decide how big you think your pocket should be. This is open to adjustment, so just make an informed guess (by measuring the pocket on another shirt, or looking at the space where you want your pockets to go, and estimating an appropriate size).
Draw a square or rectangle the dimensions you have chosen.
As a guide, I made mine 18cm long and 15cm wide.
If you want a plain square/rectangle, then skip over the next couple of steps, as you are pretty much done (you just need to add seam allowance).
To make a five sided pocket (I'm yet to come up with a more appropriate or accurate description for this type of pocket), mark a guideline vertically down the centre of the square/rectangle.
Also draw a line, parallel to the baseline, 3cm above the baseline. Depending on the size of your pocket, you may want to move this guideline further up or down, to change the degree of the angles.
Draw straight lines from either end of the line you just drew, down to the centre point on the baseline, to make the point of the pocket.
And there... You've got a pocket!
Now you just need to add seam allowance. Around the sides I suggest a 1cm seam allowance. To get a professional finish across the top of the pocket, you will want a more substantial seam allowance. I would suggest 3 or 4cm. This gives you enough to double fold the allowance (meaning that the raw edge is hidden inside the fold).
At this stage you can fold back the seam allowances and see how it looks on your shirt. Make any necessary changes.
Add cutting instructions to the pattern (normally "Cut 1" or "Cut 1 pair").
The next part of the tutorial will help you, if you are using a printed fabric and would like your pocket to match up with the print underneath.
Lay the pocket in position on the shirt (or on the cut front piece, if you have not yet sewn your shirt together). Make sure you fold back the seam allowance, so it is laying on the shirt as if it has been sewn.
Now, take a ruler and a pencil and mark any features of the print. In the case of my shirt, it is vertical and horizontal lines, but if it's something more organic, you will need to be a bit more creative with marking the features onto your pocket pattern.
You may also want to make note of colours, if this will help when cutting the pocket.
And now you can cut your pockets and get them sewn onto your shirt. You may even want to get creative with your top stitching!
And I am very pleased to say, that's a wrap!
I hope you have enjoyed this series of tutorials, and are looking forward to the next series as much as I am.