As I have decided it's time to catch up on some much needed mending, I have decided to share with you a few of my go-to mending techniques. Last week I showed you how to blind hem, and I thought that today I would show you another technique I use for hemming (as you may already know, there are many ways to finish a hem discreetly). I think this is what I love most about sewing and pattern making. There are many different ways of achieveing the same results, and it is up to you to work out which works for you.
It is very similar to the first method, but I find this one a little easier and a lot quicker! This method will be slightly more visible on the underside of the garment, than the last, but achieves the same invisible finish on the outside.
To start the stitching, take a hand needle and a single thread, with a knot in the end. To make for invisible stitches, use a nice fine needle and a coordinating thread. Make a little knot with the thread on the underside of the hem. Once your thread is secure you can make your first stitch. You want to make the stitch as small as possible, because this stitch is going through the main part of the garment (so will be visible on the outside). Put your needle through the fabric - only picking up a couple of threads, from right to left (if you are right-handed, and the opposite if you are left-handed).
Now take your needle, and make a stitch through the underside of your hem, through to the outside of the hem. Do this as close to the finished edge as possible to make your stitches as discreet as possible.
Make your next stitch about a thumb width from the first. Instead of the zig-zag stitch pattern that was created with the first method, this method will create stitches that are almost horizontal to the hem line. Continue stitching along the hemline.
If you want to make it even quicker, you can make the two stitches at the same time, by picking up a few threadds and then putting the needle straight through the hem.
Continue along the hemline, making sure your stitches are evenly spaced. Every 15cm or so, I like to stop stitching and make a little knot (as if I was finishing off my row of stitching), before continuing. By doing this you secure your last row of stitches, and if one stitch does break in the future, you will be able to just resew this small section, rather than having to re-hem the whole piece.
Continue around the hemline until you get to where you started and finish off with a secure knot, then trim your thread.
I used this method on a jersey top last week that needed some serious attention. As the top is very stretchy I needed to make the stitches very loose so that they wouldn't break when I wear it.
I used exactly the same method, except every so often I would stretch the hem to make sure that they were loose enough. As it is quite a fine weave, this automatically stretched the stitches to the right size.