A GUIDE TO UNIFORM DRESSING

When we’ve dragged ourself out of bed and are standing in front of the wardrobe at the start of the day it’s not uncommon to feel like we have ‘nothing to wear’.

The wardrobe might be bursting at the seams from all the options it holds, but that’s not what we see…

We see questions. (Does this go with that? Do I feel like wearing that today? Does it need to be ironed??)

And decisions. (Ugh, too early.)

So how can we lower the morning hurdle of ‘what do I wear?’ without resorting to moving to a nudist colony?

Uniform dressing. (You might also be familiar with the term ‘capsule wardrobe’.)

What is uniform dressing?

When you think of uniform dressing you might have some very specific images pop into your head.

Like, Steve Jobs and his black turtleneck, jeans and sneakers, for example.

Or Barack Obama and his grey or blue suits…

Even Karl Lagerfeld with his white ponytail, high collared shirts, black sunglasses and signature fingerless gloves.

These are all extreme examples of uniform dressing, and you might be thinking that wearing the same thing, day in day out, is the last thing you want to do!

And we agree! That’s NOT the kind of uniform dressing we’re talking about. We want easy, not boring!(Phew!)

For us, uniform dressing is about having a few key looks or pieces in your wardrobe that you can pull together quickly to make getting dressed easy. It’s a smaller collection of versatile garments that can mix with a range of other pieces to create different looks.

When I first designed the Stow dress (long before I knew it was going to become an In the Folds pattern), I had no idea it was going to become a major part of my studio/work uniform. I just thought it would be fun to make a denim dress that I could layer over tops and t-shirts in my wardrobe. Within no time it became a constant in my wardrobe - through changing weather and changing seasons - and 6 years later it’s still going strong. It even got me through half of my pregnancy last year!

With the release of the Stow dress pattern in our sewing subscription - Curated by ITF, I’ve been thinking back on the original version and how much I’ve worn it. I’ve realised how great it is to have “work-horse” pieces in your wardrobe that you can just grab and throw on. But I’ve also been thinking a lot about what makes these garments work so well and how we can apply this concept to our daily dressing process a little more thoughtfully.

Here’s what I’ve come up with.

What is uniform dressing to you?

How you incorporate uniform dressing into your dressing practice, and what pieces you incorporate is entirely up to you, and dependant on your daily routine and current wardrobe.

Think about the pieces you wear consistently.

What do you feel most comfortable in?

What pieces in your wardrobe go well with a range of items?

It can be easy to fall into the trap of thinking that uniform dressing has to be all neutrals or black fabric from head-to-toe. This really doesn’t need to be the case - you can have uniform pieces that are brightly coloured or prints.

For me, coming up with uniform or signature pieces depends on the seasons.

In Spring and Summer, my go-to uniform pieces are heavily printed. I find printed dresses particularly easy and comfortable to throw on in the warmer months. Because dresses are usually worn on their own, I don’t have to think about what to wear them with.

In the cooler months my uniform pieces leans more heavily towards the darker tones and denims. I find it easier to layer tones of a similar colour, along with a few pops of colour here and there for added interest.

When I spoke to my colleague, Alys, about uniform dressing, she said her go-to is a printed Barkly skirt (check it out here!) that she can easily throw on with a black t-shirt or top. So as you can see, a uniform piece doesn’t necessarily need to be all neutral!


THINK ABOUT the pieces that work for you

Often you won’t know what these uniform pieces are until you sit down and have a think about what gets the most wear in your wardrobe. You might think you like a lot of glitz and glamour, but the reality is that jeans and t-shirts are your go-tos.

When you’ve come up with a list of items you wear consistently, think about why you wear them. Is it because you like the feel of them on your skin? Perhaps it’s because they’re easy to care for? Or maybe they just make you feel good?

Our Slow Sewing Planner includes a wardrobe reflection flow chart, wardrobe diary and wardrobe evaluation that can help you work through this process, and is a resource you can return to each season, year or whenever you feel like you’re in a bit of a wardrobe slump.


Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!


Think about fabric

Fabric plays a big part in the pieces that get a lot of wear.

Durable fabrics can last the test of time and be worn over and over. While delicate fabrics might be pretty to look at and be lovely to wear, they might not become the “work-horse” you imagined because of how they need to be cared for.

For example, I have a lot of Acton dresses in my wardrobe, made from everything from printed cotton to silk crepe de chine. The ones that get the most wear by far are the ones made from cotton because I can just throw them in the washing machine. For me, this is very important when thinking about uniform dressing in the Summer.

But, washing puts additional stress on our garments and is not always necessary. So, when it comes to uniform dressing in the cooler months, it’s good to think about how you can take care of your clothes without the need to wash them all the time.

For example, my original Stow dress is made from a mid-weight denim and I rarely wash it. I designed it to be worn with layers, so I almost always have something under it - a t-shirt, long sleeve top, tights when it’s chilly. This means I can just wash the base layers and the dress itself can be worn numerous times before needing a wash. I spot remove marks and only wash it when necessary. When I do wash it, I turn it inside out and wash in cold water to put as little strain on the garment as possible.

It’s also good to consider what fabrics you like to wear and why. If you prefer natural fibres, think about how you can incorporate these into your uniform pieces. You may think it’s more expensive to use the fibres you prefer, but if you consider the cost per wear of uniform pieces then you’ll see that over time it really pays off.

CHOOSING garment style & SEWING PATTERNS

We think it’s a good idea to steer clear of trends when choosing designs for a uniform wardrobe. The goal with uniform pieces is to have them in heavy rotation for years to come. Instead, focus on the shapes and silhouettes you like to wear season after season. The easiest way to work this out is by assessing your existing wardrobe and thinking about the pieces that you feel comfortable in and wear often. 

When you’re purchasing a sewing pattern it’s good to remember that you don’t have to use a pattern exactly as it has been drafted. With a few patternmaking skills you can adapt patterns to be exactly what you need. We’ve all had a garment we love but feel that something is missing something (pockets, a sleeve, or a bit of extra length). By hacking your patterns you can add whatever you need!

What do you think about the idea of uniform dressing? Is it something you might adopt, either completely or in part?

At the very least, we hope this has made you feel more confident to start thinking about uniform dressing and what it means to you. If you’d like to dive in deeper into this topic with us, it’s what we’re all talking about this month with our Curated by ITF community!

Happy sewing!

Emily



WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

TAKE A PEEK INSIDE EMILY'S SEWING SPACE

Inside Emily's sewing space

When we’re organising our own sewing space it can be helpful to see how others set their areas up. It gives us inspiration and ideas, and often triggers creative solutions for storage problems we might be facing. (That’s why we’ve all got so many Pinterest boards, after all! *wink wink*)

We thought you might like to see how Emily has set up her new(ish) sewing studio. Even though it’s where she operates her business from and you may be sewing for pleasure, a limited budget means that she has had to be creative with her approach. And we can all relate to that, right!?

Come with us as we take a peek inside Emily’s sewing studio!

tell us about your sewing space

I have a studio in a large, creative space with over 20 other artists and creatives. I enjoy having other creative people around to have lunch and a chat with. Running a small business can be lonely, so working in a space like this is a nice way to make sure I don’t go a whole day without talking to anyone!

My studio is a good size, with big windows down one end that make the space lovely and bright.

I have set up the space so it can be multi-use as there a lots of different parts to my business. I need a comfortable computer set-up as I spend most of my working hours at a computer; sewing space with notions and tools within easy reach; as well as a large patternmaking and cutting table.

Storage is also really important as I have lots of fabric for sampling and paper patterns to store.


Join Curated by ITF - find your new community!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey our Curated by ITF subscription might be just what you're looking for.

As well as a monthly sewing project, you’ll gain access to our private member platform where you can receive feedback and advice from the ITF team and other experienced makers, participate in sew-alongs and make sewing besties all over the world!


WHAT’S IMPORTANT FOR YOU IN A SEWING SPACE?

It’s really important for me to be well organised so I can find what I need quickly and easily.

I’ve always loved the idea of designing spaces to maximise comfort and efficiency so things just work without you having to think too much about it. For me, this means having my most frequently used tools out on the table and having patternmaking paper within easy reach.

I find a pegboard the easiest way to see exactly where everything is, rather than rummaging through a drawer.

For a sewing space to be functional I want as few hurdles as possible in my way, so tidying up at the end of each day or sewing/cutting session is high priority!

ANY TIPS FOR MAXIMISING SPACE?

Yes! Here you go:

  • Hang patterns on a clothes rack. When I didn’t have a studio space I used to hang them in my wardrobe! It’s a great way to keep patterns flat, with the added bonus of being easy to flick through whenever I’m looking for a particular pattern. Using specifications sheets (like the one included in our Curated by ITF Organise Your Stash issue) attached to the front makes it even easier to keep track of what’s in my pattern stash.

  • Take advantage of vertical space. Using wall shelves is a great way to create extra storage space without making a room feel cluttered. It also means things are within easy reach and there is less bending down and rummaging through messy drawers!

  • Have a little bin, thread catcher or even just a bowl on your sewing table at all times. Having somewhere to throw all those threads and fabric trimmings is a game changer! When I started doing this I couldn’t believe how much I was collecting each day. Before this it all just ended up on the floor, which meant I had to vacuum after every sewing session.

  • Keep the fabric stash to a minimum. This one is easier said than done, I know! We all love to buy the pretty fabric, but it’s something I’m always striving for. I like to only buy fabric when I have a specific project in mind. Due to the nature of my business I do need to have some fabric on hand, but I am careful to make sure it’s practical and likely to be used. I love hunting for pre-loved fabric in local charity shops, so sometimes this rule is difficult to stick to!

Happy organising!



WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING…

THREE PATTERNS TO HELP ORGANISE YOUR SEWING SPACE

Do you love the start of a new year as much as I do?

I love to reflect on the year that's passed, but there's nothing like the feeling of refreshing and opportunity a new beginning brings. And I particularly love the excitement of making ambitious creative plans for the months ahead!

Both Emily and I recently changed studios spaces and we have seen firsthand how impactful a sewing space can be on our motivation and ability to sew, which has inspired this month's Curated by ITF project, Organise Your Space.

THREE LITTLE PATTERNS THAT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE

When you're setting up or rejigging a sewing space it's easy to get distracted by the BIG things - tables, chairs, shelves and the like. But as we set up our new sewings spaces last year we realised how impactful the little things can be and that we really shouldn't discount them.

That's why we included three sewing room accessory patterns with this month’s Curated by ITF Issue. If you don't have the time or the money (or even the inclination!) to make big changes to your sewing space, these three little patterns will have you feeling just a wee bit more organised in just a short amount of time and with very little financial investment. In fact, they’ll even help you use up some of those fabric scraps we KNOW you’ve got lying around!

the sewing accessories you need (and want!)

One thing we’ve noticed is that makers will often use what’s at hand as a temporary measure to meet a need. Tinned food for pattern weights, clip-seal bags for pattern storage. You know what we’re talking about, right?

And while it’s perfectly acceptable to make-do like this, we’ve found that there will inevitably come a time when you’ve eaten all the tinned tomatoes or the clip-seal bag gets a hole in it… So we wanted to create some alternatives to those items we’re ‘temporarily’ (forever) using.

Our beautiful Project bag replaces crumpled plastic wallets and clip-seal bags.

Our cute Pattern weights replace tins of chopped tomatoes (or lentils or corn or tuna).

Our Overlocker Thread catcher replaces … well… scooping up all those scraps from the floor!


Did you know, you can actually join Curated by ITF just for the community?!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey, but don't want the monthly projects, then our Curated by ITF Supporter tier might be just what you're looking for. You'll receive feedback and advice from other experienced makers and make sewing besties all over the world!


our design process

When we’re designing new projects, we start with a general idea of what we want the issue to be about, then we sit down together and decide the specific content that will be included. Emily and I chat through our thoughts and bounce ideas off each other until we’re happy with what to include.

For this month’s Issue, we had been separately thinking about what we wanted from a project bag, and when we started talking about it we realised our ideas were really aligned! We both wanted it to:

  • Be big enough to fit all of our projects in. 30 x 45cm had worked well for both of our current solutions.

  • Have a pocket to hold printed instructions. 

  • Have a flap opening fastened by Velcro.

  • Have a clear pocket to label what’s inside.

  • Include a hanger tab for easy storage.

Then we spoke about different things we needed in our sewing space and came up with the pattern weights and thread catcher ideas.

As you know, we have a big focus on skill-building in Curated by ITF so we wanted to make sure that these patterns also provided us with an opportunity to learn something new, or practice and hone some skills we already have.

Even though these patterns might look simple, they will definitely help you continue to grow in your sewing practice. Specifically, we cover:

  • Sewing tricky corners. We've got lots of top tips to get a perfect corner. Our overlocker thread catcher is a great time to put this to use!

  • Sewing velcro. Something that’s not commonly used in garment clothing.

  • Sewing patch pockets.

  • Bagging out (sewing something and turning it inside out).

  • Hand-stitching to finish patterns (useful for sewing accessories and linings).

SMALL CHANGES, BIG DIFFERENCE

Sometimes a few small changes to your space can really refresh it and make you want to get back sewing, and that’s our intention with these three little (but very impactful and functional) sewing accessory patterns.

No matter how big or small your space, you can maximise it by getting clever with storage solutions like our Project bag.

We hope they help you help your future-self by setting up your sewing space so it’s easy to get started sewing next time.

Happy sewing,

Alys



Digital garment design with the Gibson Loungewear pattern

Recently, the way I design garments has changed.

When I studied garment design at university we used a very hands-on approach. We drew designs by hand on paper. We played with fabric to see how they translated. It was literally design, toile and repeat... until we were happy with the outcome. 

While design software has been around for a while I never felt like the results compared to what I could create by hand. Many of them have a HUGE learning curve, along with an enormous upfront cost, which just isn't feasible for a small business.

But over the last couple of years software like Clo3d has entered the market, providing a good option for small businesses like mine (as well as students and other makers). I dabbled in it here and there, but didn't take it seriously at first. My established processes for design were effective and comfortable for me. Plus, I felt I was too busy with the day-to-day running of In the Folds to try and fit another thing in.

Garment Design: Learning a new way

When a Clo3d teaching opportunity came up at the university I work at, it seemed like the perfect opportunity. And, I decided it was probably a good idea to keep my skills current!

Since teaching 1st and 3rd year subjects on Clo this year I have gained a lot of confidence using it and I've realised it's a fantastic way of working.

As I mentioned above, before using Clo3d my process involved a loose draft of a pattern and then testing, toiling and patternmaking over and over until I was happy with a design. Needless to say, it was a time and resource-consuming process! 

Clo3d speeds up my process considerably and minimises the amount of resources I use, which is fantastic from a sustainability perspective - something that's very important to me. I can now do a lot of the experimentation in Clo, and have a much more resolved design by the time I get to sewing a sample and trying it on a fit model.

I can also quickly and easily test out a range of iterations - something I didn't do as much of previously because it meant redrafting a garment and making a number of new toiles to check what a design idea looked like.

The gibson LOUNGEWEAR design process

Unless you've worked in a design studio you may not have had the opportunity to see how a garment pattern is created, so I thought I'd share the process I followed to create the Gibson Loungewear design. 

Alys and I also recently chatted about the inspiration behind the design, which you can watch here.

Step 1

Using Clo3d I started with a basic raglan dress shape.

I then used the cut and spread technique to add volume to the neckline. (The purple lines show where the pattern has been cut and spread.)

This is what Clo3d gave us...

It always takes a bit of trial and error to work out how much volume you want to add to a pattern, and this will also depend on the recommended fabric.

If you’re using a thick or heavy fabric, you don’t need as much volume to make an impact, whereas if you are using lightweight fabrics, it will take a lot more fabric to give you a gathered effect. Being able to test this out digitally is a huge game-changer, as you can add some volume - check it and then add more or less, depending on the outcome. This is not the case when doing it by hand - it's not so easy to add or remove volume to a toile to check how it's going to look.


Did you know, you can actually join Curated by ITF just for the community?!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey, but don't want the monthly projects, then our Curated by ITF Supporter tier might be just what you're looking for. You'll receive feedback and advice from other experienced makers and make sewing besties all over the world!


I then started having a play with different iterations and began to think about a sleeveless version.

As you can see, it doesn’t look great! This is why I love being able to test things out in Clo, rather than drafting a pattern, cutting from fabric and toiling.

I am mindful that some things will look better in the flesh than they do digitally and I have a suspicion that this would have worked better made in real fabric. But it got me thinking about our customers. I know a lot of them prefer a sleeve, so thought it best to go back to the sleeve option and continue playing with that.

It was at this point that I felt happy enough with the draft to print it out and start playing with the real thing.

And eventually we came up with the Gibson Loungewear set as it is today!

I really love the hands-on element of designing and making patterns and I definitely don’t want to lose that.

But using Clo3d gets me to a point where I know that the first toile will be fairly solid. I can now cut out the stage that normally uses the most paper and fabric, saving me time and money. Two important resources small businesses never have enough of!

Have you had a chance to play in Clo3d? If so, I'd love for you to share your thoughts with me!

Happy designing,

Emily


Thank you to our models and testers!

Thank you to our amazing sample makers & models @lovemade.handmade and @the.hemline.eclectic.



12 THINGS WE'VE LEARNED IN 12 MONTHS OF CURATED BY ITF

It's hard to believe, but it's been a year since we launched our first Issue of Curated by ITF. It's been a huge year for the ITF team and we have been learning just as much as our wonderful subscribers.

So we thought we'd share with you the key lessons we've learned this year!

1. SEWING IS EVEN BETTER WITH FRIENDS!

This is probably a no-brainer, but making a handmade wardrobe has lots of ups and downs and we've learned that being able to share your wins or frustrations makes for a much more enjoyable experience!

When we first started developing Curated by ITF we knew it needed to have a community element. Since those early days our Curated by ITF online community has grown to become a beautiful, encouraging, motivating, inspiring and, most importantly of all, a safe place where our community members (‘Foldies’ as we’ve starting calling them just recently!) feel comfortable to ask questions, share photos of their toiles, and have a bit of a maker-vent where needed.

It’s also a place I love checking in to every day. It has given me great joy to see how a little idea that was planted a long time and eventually came to fruition has helped so many people, and I love being able to provide that one-to-one assistance that can be lacking in many online communities. It’s incredible to see our members learning from our patterns and resources, but what has been even more wonderful is seeing the generosity that our members offer to each other by sharing their own learnings and wisdom.

In return the community has helped me when I’ve felt uninspired or a little battle-weary from running a small business with a very small team and for that I’m very grateful. All I need to do is check in and see the amazing things people are learning from our resources and I’m ready to get back to the patternmaking table (or more often that not, back to the computer!)


Did you know, you can actually join Curated by ITF just for the community?!

If you're looking to be supported, motivated and inspired through your sewing journey, but don't want the monthly projects, then our Curated by ITF Supporter tier might be just what you're looking for. You'll receive feedback and advice from other experienced makers and make sewing besties all over the world!


2. WE’RE NOT THE ONLY ONES WHO LOVE GEEKING OUT ABOUT SEWING.

For a long time we thought we may have been the only ones who enjoyed geeking out about ‘the why’ of sewing and patternmaking. Although Alys and I are qualified fashion designers, we both gravitated towards the more technical side of fashion (sewing and patternmaking) after our university days. You can often find us sitting at our desks chatting about the cleanest way to finish a particular seam, what different drag lines on a toile mean, or the easiest way to articulate how to smooth curves.

But since getting to know our Curated by ITF community over the last 12 months, we have realised we are most definitely not alone! It has been amazing to share so many lightbulb moments in our community over the last 12 months, because we know from experience that if you understand ‘the why’ (the reasons why you make an adjustment or alteration), you are able to make informed decisions about your makes in the future.

3. SLOW REALLY IS BEST.

Thoughtful and intentional consumption is the backbone of all that we do at In the Folds and we’ve realised that by slowing down our sewing practice we can ensure our makes are worn and loved.

This is exactly why we created the Slow Sewing Planner and released it as part of the Curated subscription earlier this year. We want to help our subscribers make careful and mindful decisions about their wardrobe. Decisions that consider people and the planet.

By making garments that fit well and make us feel great, we require less. If we take the time to ensure garments are made well, we will take better care of them. As we form stronger bonds and ties with our clothes we'll cherish them long into the future. Every decision we make has a flow on effect!

4. THE EXPERIENCE OF SEWING OUR OWN WARDROBE IS MORE REWARDING IF WE FOCUS ON INPUT INSTEAD OF OUTPUT.

At a time when clothing is as cheap as it has ever been, most of us are not sewing to fill our wardrobes, but to learn new skills and spend time doing something we love. But, it doesn’t take long to realise that sewing, although fun and fulfilling, can also have its frustrating moments. We’ve all put a sleeve in on the wrong side, clipped a seam too far, or just made something that just wasn’t what quite what you had in mind. And this is part of the process!

The truth is we usually learn more from these struggles than the projects that go smoothly from beginning to end (but it can be difficult to remember that when you’re picking up your seam ripper for the twelfth time in a sitting!). If we accept and embrace the idea that we will make mistakes along the way, then we are going to enjoy the time at our machine more. The easiest way to do this is to focus on building our skills (input), rather than how many items of clothing we've successfully made this year (output). By reframing our approach to sewing, mistakes we make can be seen as learning opportunities, rather than failures or something to be ashamed of.

An example of this that we’ve loved seeing is makers actually wanting to have fitting issues so they could have a go at using our Fit Kits. Never in our wildest dreams did we imagine this happening!

5. PUSHING THROUGH THE DISCOMFORT IS WORTH IT!

We’ve seen our community push through barriers over and over again. Having the guts to post a photo in our online group and ask for feedback, asking questions when they’re stuck… it can be hard!

As introverts who prefer to be at the patternmaking table instead of in front of the camera, we can relate! It takes a lot of encouragement for us to turn on the camera and put ourselves out there, but we’ve learned that it’s worth it every time. By being vulnerable, showing up, talking about both the highs and the lows, we have been able to connect with our community on a much deeper level.

6. DESIGNING PATTERNS THAT LAST THE TEST OF TIME IS REWARDING.

Curated by ITF has been designed to support our community to learn new skills over time. One month we might be working on fit, while another month we’re working on beautiful finishing techniques or pattern hacking.

What has been amazing is seeing our community learning new skills and then applying these skills to another pattern from the Curated or In the Folds archive (or another designer’s pattern). This is something we always keep front of mind when designing a new pattern because we want our patterns and resources to last the test of time. We steer clear of trends and fads so that our patterns will serve you well into the future.

7. TAKE IT ONE STEP AT A TIME.

It doesn't matter who you are, sometimes life just gets in the way. So, in a world that’s pushing us to do ‘More! More! More!’ it's helpful to remember that we don't have to do everything all at once.

We have enjoyed helping makers integrate sewing into their daily lives so that they're able to enjoy 20 minutes at the sewing machine before work or the 15 minutes spent chatting to other sewists online during a commute.

8. LEARNING NEW SKILLS TAKES TIME AND PATIENCE.

It can be easy to fall into the trap of wanting to learn ‘all the things’ all at once. But with any new skill it’s important to remember that it takes time and patience to get good at it. And particularly when doing new things with our hands it takes time and practice for it to become muscle-memory. We love this quote from Ira Glass about being a beginner - it's a good reminder for all of us!

Having a community to work alongside and share the process with makes sewing so much better. I think we can get into the trap of thinking we’re the only one who is getting stuck on something, or struggling with something. By working alongside a community of makers you can see that others have the same questions and the same struggles!

Woman in black sitting at sewing machine.

9. THERE IS SO MUCH WE CAN LEARN FROM OTHERS.

Something amazing we have noticed is how much our community members learn from each other! It's the questions, and the toile photos, and the realisations that makers are having that encourage others to give things a go, or helps them understand where they went wrong.

When our members aren’t able to get stuck into a project right away, they have told us they're still learning just by seeing what others are doing with the patterns and resources, and it gives them a base to work from when they get started.

10. SEWING IS A FORM OF SELF-CARE.

Sewing doesn’t need to be another thing that’s added to our to-do list! Giving time and space for making in our routines allows us to use sewing as a way to disconnect and unwind. Getting creative and lost in making can be so good for the soul!

11. IT’S FUN AND HEALTHY TO EXPLORE AND EXPERIMENT WITHOUT AN END GOAL IN MIND.

In the same way that it’s fulfilling to focus on skill-building instead of making more clothes, it’s also great for our brains to try something new just for the fun of it. We have loved seeing our community gain the confidence to hack a pattern just to see what will happen or just try an idea because they can’t get it out of their heads. And as we've said, even if it doesn't go to plan, if you're focused on input instead of output, any new skill or lesson learned is a win! Check out our archive of sewing tutorials if you’d like to start the journey of expanding your sewing skills!

Woman working on making pattern alterations.

12. THERE IS ALWAYS MORE TO LEARN!

We have learned so much with the creation of Curated by ITF and we know (and now hope!) this will continue. While there are so many things we wish we’d known at the beginning, it was the mistakes and the experimentation that got us where we are today and we have to continually remind ourselves that it’s all part of the process.

We've loved seeing how makers of all different skill levels have approached each project. Beginners are focusing on gaining confidence in their finishing skills, while intermediate and advanced makers might be working with trickier fabrics, or learning how to make fitting adjustments and hack patterns.

The main thing is we're all learning alongside each other and making a community together! If you think you’d love to join a supportive community you can become an ITF Supporter here. If you would love to start building on your sewing skills with the benefits of an online community, you can learn more about Curated by ITF sewing subscription here and subscribe here.


Top tips for pattern hacking

Top tips for pattern hacking


Making clothing you love to wear is about having the ability to tailor garments to fit your body, your preferences and your needs. This is why, for Issue 2 of Curated by ITF, we are sharing the foundations of patternmaking with you.

We'll be taking our Neale jumpsuit pattern that fits us so well and pattern hacking it into the designs below. So we thought that in today's email, we'd share a few of our top tips for successful pattern hacking with you.

What is pattern hacking?

Pattern hacking means that you use an existing pattern to draft a new pattern. This could mean small changes, such as adding a pocket or changing the neckline. It could also mean large-scale changes such as adding a sleeve to a sleeveless pattern or combining multiple patterns to create a new design.


1. Choose a pattern that fits you well! 

The main benefit of pattern hacking is that you can take a pattern that you know fits you and create a new design. This means you don't need to dive back into assessing the fit all over again, as you have already done that work with the original pattern. For large scale hacks, you may still need to make some fit alterations after checking your toile, but this will be far less than if you had started with a new pattern.

With Curated by In the folds - we teach you pattern hacking on patterns from previous issues, for example. Issue 1 focused on fitting the Neale jumpsuit and Issue 2 takes that pattern and creates 4 new designs! So you’re learning new skills as well as making clothes you know you’ll love!

Ready to join us but don't have the Neale jumpsuit pattern? Not a problem. After you sign-up, you will receive a link to purchase the jumpsuit pattern as a standalone pattern (for the same price as your monthly subscription).

2. Use the clothes you wear the most to determine what you sew

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Another reason you might choose to hack a pattern is because sometimes it is difficult to know what changes you would like to make until after you have spent some time wearing a garment.

You may have worn a garment you have made and soon be thinking, 'if only it was longer' or 'if only it had pockets.' Pattern hacking gives you a chance to make the clothing you want to wear, without needing to draft patterns from scratch.

Learning pattern hacking will give you confidence to take ownership of the garments you sew and help you make exactly the kind of garment you want to wear.

3. Choose the right pattern to hack

It’s important to think about the main features of your design and cleverly pick which patterns you hack from. For example, if you want to make a dress with a big sleeve and a V-neck, you wouldn’t start with a sleeveless dress. You can always mash two patterns together if needed! 

In Issue 2 we’re using the Neale jumpsuit from Issue 1 and we’ve selected hacks that would work well using this jumpsuit or a similar one to start! (For example, you could apply some of these hacks to the Peppermint jumpsuit pattern).

4. Learn new skills at your own pace

Pattern making is a craft! It takes years to train and become a pattern maker. Pattern hacking is a great opportunity to learn pattern making skills and build on these skills gradually over time. Like any new skill or hobby, getting good at it will take time. Be patient and enjoy the process. That's what it's all about!

Start with simple hacks and work your way up to more complex ones. With Curated by ITF we introduce you to the basic concepts, techniques and tools for pattern hacking and take you through step by step until you’re ready to create your own! The hacks in this issue have been designed so that no matter what your patternmaking experience is, there will be something for you. Start with the beginner friendly hacks and work your way up to the more complex hacks if you are working on gradually building up your skills.

5. Always trace a copy and keep your drafts

When you are happy with the fit of the original pattern, trace a copy of the pattern so that you can always refer to or return to the original. In pattern making we also keep our drafts - which are the work in progress patterns, so we can have a ‘history’ of what we’ve done to the pattern. It's a good idea to put a date on each version of a pattern, so you always know which pattern is the most up to date.

Until the patterns are completely finalised (and beyond!) you never know when you might need to refer back to these previous versions.

6. Learn the basics

It's so important to learn the basics of patternmaking before you dive in. This will allow you to grasp the concepts and prevent you from getting overwhelmed when you get started. These techniques will take you a long way and once you learn a few basics you can get creative and have fun with the rest! 

We recommend knowing how to:

  • Add and remove seam allowance

  • Check seam lengths

  • True seams, curves and darts

  • Check patterns are squared off

  • How to move a dart

We cover all of these in our Hack kit for Issue 2 of Curated by ITF, as well as extra articles throughout the month with photos and videos in our community group. This is a great place to ask questions and see the process and questions from others as they’re working on the same thing.

7. Read through the instructions before you start

If you’re following instructions or a blog for a pattern hack then we recommend reading them through from beginning to end before you get started, so you can get an overview of what you are aiming to achieve. This will help when you come back to doing the earlier steps!

8. Make a toile to check you’re happy

Make a toile / muslin to check that you are happy with the design and fit of the garment before cutting the pattern from your final fabric. Because you’ve started with a pattern where you’re happy with the fit, this should help a lot when toiling. If you’re making small changes you can sometimes just go for it, but when you’re making bigger changes, especially adding volume etc. then it's always best to toile and check that you’re happy with style lines, silhouette and fit.

One of the challenges of pattern hacking is that you no longer have instructions for how to make the garment. We've solved this problem in Issue 2 of Curated by including a construction resource, that goes through everything from working out fabric yardage, order of construction for the hacks and then does a deep dive into specific dressmaking techniques.

9. As always, remember to enjoy the process!

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Remember pattern making takes time, so be patient and enjoy the process!

The hacks we've created have been placed in order of difficulty and there is a skill rating on each hack's introduction page so that you can determine which hack you would like to try. Are you new to pattern hacking? Start with the Straight neckline jumpsuit or the Elastic waist pants. Ready to level up? Try the Sleeveless boxy top. Ready to get a lot of pattern making skills under your belt? Check out the Jumpsuit with waist seam and darts.

We start with introduction pages of the Hack Kit pdf to learn about concepts, techniques and tools for pattern hacking. Then you can use the rest of the Hack Kit to get started on the pattern hacks with step-by-step instructions.

If you’d like to learn more about pattern making and join us with our monthly subscription, Curated by ITF, you can do so via the link below.

Tips for getting a good fit on a jumpsuit

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Tips for getting a good fit on a jumpsuit

We are very excited to let you know that our new Neale jumpsuit pattern is here! This is the jumpsuit we've been dreaming about for a long time. It's the perfect piece to wear to work, to wear out, to relax on the weekend. It will make you feel put together, but incredibly comfortable and at ease to do the things you want to do in your handmade wardrobe.⁠⁠

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The Neale jumpsuit is a a real skill builder of a pattern! Which is why we chose it to be our first Curated by In the Folds pattern.⁠ Sewing a jumpsuit means working with both the top and bottom of the body, which allows for the opportunity to learn more fitting techniques. We created a jam-packed Neale Fit Kit to go along with our first Curated by ITF pattern, so you can jump straight into it.⁠⁠ In today’s post, we would like to shares some of these great tips for getting a good fit on a jumpsuit.

Sewing a jumpsuit can be tricky as you are fitting both the top and bottom part of a pattern. But often as they have a looser fit, they are a great intro introduction to pants fitting and with this post we hope to make the process a lot more fun!


1. Pick the right size for you

a. Take your measurements using a tape measure, check out our diagram to see exactly where you should measure! Make sure to measure at the fullest part of your hips. We suggest doing this in front of a full length mirror. 

b. Check the size chart and circle or note the corresponding size for each pattern. If your measurements are between sizes, you could blend between the two. Before doing this, look at the finished garment measurements to decide if you could select the smaller or larger size. 

TIP: Use a tape measure and place it around your body to get a feel for how it will fit. (Remember to place yourself in the centre of the tape measure rather than pulling it forward or back.) This allows you to see the amount of ease in the pattern - as this is something that changes between patterns. For example the Neale jumpsuit has more ease in the waist than it does in the bust and hip.

2. Make all the adjustments you can before sewing

Before we get started with making our toiles / muslins, it's worth thinking about which alterations you can do beforehand.  You can make some alterations before making a toile / muslin using your measurements, while others are made when you have done a fitting of a toile and have the toile to refer to.

Some of you will have a good idea of the alterations that are usual for you to make to a pattern before getting started. We encourage you to make these standard alterations to the pattern before you make a toile so that you can achieve a good fit at the fitting stage.

One example of an alteration you can do beforehand is checking the length. Especially in a jumpsuit you need to consider the length between each section e.g bust to waist, waist to hip, hip to crotch, then add in or take away length at the appropriate section.

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Another alteration that you may be able to do before making a toile is a SBA (Small Bust Adjustment) or FBA (Full Bust Adjustment). To check this, work out the difference between your high bust measurement and bust measurement. If the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement is 2.5cm (1") your bust is an A cup, 5cm (2") it's a B cup, 7.5cm (3") is a C cup, 10cm (4in) is a D cup and so on. Record your bust cup size.

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Often pattern companies draft for a B cup, sometimes they will offer a range of cup sizes. It's best to check before you start sewing. In the Folds currently offers a B cup.

• If you have a B cup bust cup size you will not need to make a bust adjustment to the pattern.

• If you have an A cup bust (or smaller) you may need to do a Small Bust Adjustment.

• If you have a C cup bust cup size or larger you may need to do a Full Bust Adjustment

3. Sew a toile

A toile is a test version of a garment, made from a similar, but often cheaper, fabric that assists with the fitting process. By making a toile, you can check the fit, and make any adjustments before cutting into your 'real' fabric.

You only need to cut the front and back pieces, you don’t need to sew the zip, facing pieces, pockets or finish the seams. On the toile - mark the bust, waist and hip line on the fabric. On the Neale jumpsuit we’ve added notches so you can easily find these on your pattern!

You can also mark in the bust apex point by drawing a line from the centre of the dart, through the dart point and beyond the tip of the dart by 2.5cm (1in). Lastly extend the pocket notches on the toile with a marker so that you can check you are happy with the pocket positioning.

Other tips for sewing a toile are:

  • Remove the seam allowance from the neckline and armholes and add staystitching to stop them stretching.

  • Sew the toile with a longer stitch length than usual, so that when fitting the toile it is easy to release the seams if you need to.

  • Do not sew the hem. It is good to have the hem allowance available if you would like to experiment with length options. 

  • Remember, it is still important to press the toile well as you sew. This will help you when assessing the fit of the toile.


4. Assess the fit

Now it's time to assess the fit. Yay!

Get yourself set-up in front of a full length mirror with a notebook, pen, pins, seam ripper / snips and marker. If you have a friend who can help you - get them too! Work through the checklist below and take note of any issues. It’s also a good idea to take pictures on the front, side and back (you can use the timer on your camera). Sometimes you notice things on the photos that you may not see in real life. 

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Jumpsuit fitting checklist:

  • Check that your side seams appear straight and are perpendicular to the floor. If your side seam is pulling towards the front or the back, this normally means that you need more width in the area where it's pulling.

  • Lift your arms and check that the armhole sits in a comfortable position under your arm. Check that the armhole is a nice shape on the front and back.

  • Check that your BUST LINE, WAIST LINE and HIP LINE are in the correct position for you and are all parallel to the floor. If any of these lines are in the incorrect position, you will need to either shorten or lengthen the pattern. For a jumpsuit it’s important to notice where to add/take length because you are fitting both a top and pants in one.

  • Check the front and back crotch are not too tight or too loose. If they are, you will need to adjust the crotch length.

  • Move around. Check that you can move and sit comfortably in the jumpsuit. If a seam feels tight, let out the seam with your seam ripper and re-pin the seam with a smaller seam allowance to see if this helps.

You can find more fitting tips, the full checklist and instructions on how to make these adjustments in our first issue of Curated by In the Folds. Our September project, the Neale jumpsuit, comes with a bonus Fit Kit that will walk you through a range of different pattern alterations in detail. 


5. Grab a cup of tea and take a break!

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Fitting patterns at times can be hard. It’s important to take a break! Remember not to ‘over fit’, it’s easy to start obsessing over every wrinkle but in reality, we move around and we aren’t just a static image! 

You don’t have to make all of the adjustments at once. You can choose which are more important to you and if you like, you can build on these as you go. With Curated by In the folds we aim to help you through the fitting process, one step at a time, providing you with all the information (always tested by us!) in one place and hopefully have some fun with it! As part of the subscription, we also have a great online platform in which you can ask any questions and see what other people are making and learn from their fitting process too.

If you’d like to learn more about fitting and join us with our monthly subscription, Curated by ITF you can do so via the link below.

Drafting a bodice block - a few questions and answers

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Drafting a bodice block - a few questions and answers

A few years ago, I created a blog post about how to draft a bodice block from your own measurements. Little did I know that this was going to become the most popular blog post on my website!

I have received a number of questions lately about the tutorial and I thought it could be a good idea to publish some of these questions and answers as an opportunity to help you on your own learning journey. I love the Q&A format - over the last year or so I have been sending a newsletter that includes a question from the community and my answer to it and I have loved all your responses to the series. I think it’s a great way to see what people actually need help with, rather than just producing the content that I assume people need. It’s also a fun challenge for me and I feel that I am constantly learning from these questions.

I will update this post as I receive more questions, so that hopefully, if you have a question, you will find a relevant answer here and can keep on going with your draft!

Update September 2021

Thank you so much for all the enthusiasm for my blog posts about bodice drafting. It has been my most popular blog post of all time! After 5 years of answering questions, I no longer have capacity to answer individual questions regarding bodice drafting. The comments have now been switched off and I will no longer be able to get back to emails regarding these blog posts.

The aim of pattern drafting

The first thing I’d like to talk about when it comes to making any pattern, is that we are not aiming for perfection right out of the gate. The idea is to get as close as you can to a good fit and then make a toile / muslin and check the fit on your body. It’s almost impossible to know if something is going to fit you properly by just looking at a flat pattern. You can get a good idea of how something will fit, but you just won’t know until you give it a go.

The aim when drafting or adapting patterns is to create a pattern that fits you. For example, in regard to the bodice block, you are aiming to get a bodice block that fits you closely so that you can use it to draft other patterns from it (for example, this simple summer top). If when you try on your toile, you realise that the shoulders are too wide, you can make a narrow shoulder adjustment. If you notice that the dart point is in the incorrect position, you can move it. Although following a tutorial down to the letter is a great first step, that is not the end goal. There will be a point where you need to assess your toile and make some changes to achieve a good fit. A tutorial like the bodice block tutorial I created, helps you get to a really good starting point, but then it’s about looking at your toile (and your pattern) and making some changes to get nice smooth lines, or get your lines in the right position. I hope that by sharing some of my questions and answers with you, you will know what I mean and can take something away from this post!


Question : Armhole curve

Hi Emily,

 Thank you so much for the well-written and detailed blog post on how to draft a bodice block! I am just starting to sew and really appreciate amazing resources like yours.

I have the same problem as Denise Palmones about the armhole: “On that note I am having some concerns on my shoulder area on draft. I notice that my TV line is too long that it is almost on the same column of my P on the darts. Having so makes a weird armhole that has a cross leading to look like an asymmetric infinity symbol and not an oblong (V, A2 crosses the O,Z line) and I can't make it sense out of it.”

Could you please let me know how to proceed?

Thank you!

- Crystal

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Answer:

Hi Crystal,

It's looking great. I'd suggest just drawing your armhole as a nice smooth curve, don't worry too much that it's not hitting all the points (it’s much more important that you get a nice armhole shape). See example below:

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I hope that helps!

Happy sewing,

Emily


Question : Armhole curve 2

Hi there,

Hope you are well.  I have been using your tutorial for how to draft a bodice block and everything seems correct apart from my armhole, which is looking very wonky!  Please could you offer me any advice on how to solve this problem?

I have attached pictures of my bodice block as it is.  

Thank you for the great tutorial, even as a beginner, I found it really straightforward to follow!

I look forward to hearing from you.

- Julia

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Answer:

Hi Julia,

Thanks for getting in touch.

I am pleased to see you're using my tutorial! Thanks for sending through photos, that really helps.

What I suggest you do is smooth out the armhole to get a nice curved shape on the front and back. See the photo below.

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You are then able to make a toile and see how it fits!

Happy sewing,

Emily


Question: Fitting the armhole

Hi there,

I continued to work on the block and finally got the fabric to make a blockout and see what edits needed to be made. Unfortunately there is some gaping in the armpit and despite looking online I can’t find how to fix it, a lot of what I see to fix it in the back of the arm would be a shoulder dart but nothing about the front. Would you have any advice on how to fix this?

Thank you so much,

 - Shayleen

Answer:

Hi Shayleen,

Nice to get an update and see your toile. It's looking good!

What I suggest you do is pin out some darts from the armhole (in both the back and the front if both are required) to get the armhole fitting more snugly. You will need to do this while it's on the body, so if you have someone who can help, it will be a little bit easier. Once you have pinned the darts, mark them with a marker and remove the pins. You can then transfer these new darts to your pattern. Once your darts are there, you can rotate the armhole dart value, so that it can be added to the waist or shoulder dart (or a little bit to each). This will help you get the correct shaping, without actually adding a third dart. I have a tutorial about rotating dart values that you can find here.

I hope that helps!

Happy sewing,

Emily


Question: Drafting the armhole

Hi Emily! 

I followed your bodice block tutorial to draft a block based on my measurements, and it was soooo much fun!  Thank you for the thorough and easy to follow tutorial ❤️  Unfortunately, I came across an issue when placing point V and drawing my line from T to V.  Based on your example in the tutorial, it looks as though point V should extend from point T, past the A1, A2 line.  Mine however falls short. 

When drawling the armsye, it looked strange to go from A2 to V, so I also drew a line from A2 to ? (You will see this ? point on my attached draft photos).  I have also included my measurements.  Do you know what I did incorrectly and how to fix it?

When measuring my shoulder length I stopped at the bony peak, however my shoulder socket extends well past that (approximately 5cm to the end of my shoulder to where my arm goes down to my elbow)... not sure if that could be the issue... 

Hopefully this makes sense to you! 

Warmly, 

- Kelly

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Answer:

Hi Kelly,

I am so pleased to hear you had a good time following the tutorial!

I had a play in Illustrator and without having all your measurements and going through the whole process, it's a little bit tricky to see what's going to happen, but from what I can tell, what I suggest you do is:

  • I'd move point K slightly further away from the centre front

  • Rotate the angle of the dart slightly

  • Move point V so it's a bit further up / out. This just reduces the severity of the front shoulder angle

  • Check your front shoulder length. My suggested alteration might make your shoulder seam slightly longer - if so, you will need to add this onto the back too.

  • Draw armhole as illustrated below.

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This should be enough to get you to the point where you can make a toile, which is when you will really see what's working and not working.

Let me know how you go!

Happy sewing,

Emily


Question: Star Trek shoulders

Hi Emily, 

Thank you so much for your help, I’ve been scratching my head over this for the past 2 days! 

I’ve included photos, I traced the offending 80’s/Star Trek shoulder line in red to make it easier to see. 

I really appreciate the insight, I’m sure you get tons of cries for help. 

FYI I found your blog via WithWendy’s latest video and am *really* enjoying it, thank you for the quality content. 

High bust: 84cm 

Full bust: 87 cm (I’m obviously not very full chested! ^^) 

Best regards, 

- Silvia

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Answer:

Hi Silvia,

You're right! It was fantastic to get a shout-out on WithWendy's youtube channel, but it has made for quite a busy week! I don't follow anyone on youtube so it was nice to discover her and see how great her videos are!

I had a play in Illustrator and without having all your measurements and going through the whole process, it's a little bit tricky to see what's going to happen, but from what I can tell, what I suggest you do is:

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  • Move your point K slightly closer towards the centre front

  • reduce your shoulder dart size. I know the tutorial doesn't say to do this - but with your bust size, you can probably afford to make the dart smaller (and I can relate, you have similar full and high bust measurements to me! That's why it's so great to make your own clothes as you can avoid the baggy bit in the bust of fitted ready made clothes)

  • Reduce your shoulder length by about 1.5cm - you will need to remove this from the back shoulder too - as illustrated.

I think that should get you to the point when you can make a toile / muslin. You should be able to quickly see how things are looking and if you need to make an alteration. If you realise that you need that extra 1.5cm back on the shoulder, rather than extending the shoulder line I'd suggest you do a broad shoulder adjustment. I have a tutorial you can check out here.

I hope that helps Silvia. Let me know how you go!

Happy drafting,

Emily


Question: Shoulder lines overlapping

Hello Emily, 

I found your blog post via withwendy and try to make the bodice. 

Another person had the same problem as me regard to make a armhole. Because the lines JO and TV are crossing. 

Sorry for my poor english. I still hope you can understand my problem. 

Thank you very much. 

Best regards

Anhthu

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Answer:

Hi Anhthu,

 Thank you for getting in touch. I am pleased you're giving my tutorial a go!

 It's not a problem that your shoulder lines are crossing. Just keep working through the tutorial. When you get to the end you will trace the front and back bodice onto new pieces of paper, so the overlapping shoulders will no longer be a problem. Does that make sense?

Happy drafting,

Emily


Introducing the Barkly skirt!

Say hello to the Barkly skirt

I am very excited to be popping in to your inbox today to welcome the Barkly skirt to the In the Folds collection. It is the first skirt in the range, and I am always very happy to add a new garment type that helps you make a whole outfit from the collection  - as you can see from the photos, it works very well paired with the Collins top

The Barkly skirt is a panelled A-line skirt with pockets and a range of interesting details. It has been designed to be worn all year round - in summer in soft linens with sandals and in winter in denim with tights and boots - so can be added to your project list whether you're in the Southern Hemisphere like me, or in parts of the world that are beginning to warm up.

Styles can be mixed and matched so that you can combine your style preferences - the pattern comes with the usual two views, as well as an additional resource that shows you how you can mix and match the elements to make a further six skirt styles. More information about this can be found in the STYLE VARIATION KIT.

View A details

View A sits on the natural waist (the top of the waistband will sit just above the natural waist) and features a shaped waistband, slanted pockets that are inset in the side panels and a hem facing. 

Both styles feature a centre back invisible zip for a clean finish - don't be afraid if you have never sewn an invisible zip, the instructions are very detailed and once you get the hang of it, you will be wanting to sew invisible zips in everything - I promise (and I also have plenty of online resources for those of you who prefer photos)!

VIEW B DETAILS

View B sits just below the natural waist (as it features a waist facing, rather than a waistband), has patch pockets (which are therefore optional), and side splits in the hem.


Who is the pattern for?

The pattern is placed at a Level 2 (out of 5) on the In the Folds pattern skill scale, which means that you feel quite confident with the basics and are ready for new challenges. If you're a brave beginner looking for some new skills to get under your belt, then this is a great pattern for you. If you've never made a skirt before, an A-line skirt like this is a great place to start. 

As always, the pattern is available in 10 sizes (A - J, which equates to Australian sizes 6-24). For more information about sizing, please visit the Sizing Chart.

What skills will you learn by working through this pattern?

By working through this pattern, you will gain confidence in:

  • Sewing straight seams

  • Sewing curved seams

  • Joining panels together

  • Sewing pockets

  • Setting an invisible zip

  • Sewing a waistband (depending on the variation you choose to make)

  • Sewing a waist facing (depending on the variation you choose to make)

  • Working with interfacing 

Pattern format

At this stage, the Barkly skirt pattern is only available in PDF format. I hope to have it in print format by the end of this year.

A huge thank you to Daisy

I'd like to finish off by saying a huge thank you to Daisy, who did such an incredible job with these photos! Due to Covid-19 restrictions I needed to get a bit creative with how I approached the shoot and she absolutely nailed it as you can see. Thank you Daisy!


Introducing the Hove jacket!

I am very excited to let you know that the Hove jacket is here!

It will be no surprise to you (if you have been following along with my journey for a while) that this pattern has taken a long time to come into fruition. I even accidentally gave a (not so sneaky) sneak-peek of it almost 2 years ago when I was running my Kickstarter campaign.

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The Flynn jacket and the Hove jacket actually started out as two variations of the same pattern! Over time as I continued to work on the patterns, I realised they were moving further and further apart in terms of design, and were going to become a mammoth of a pattern that would probably intimidate makers - rather than inspire!

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The Hove jacket is a loose-fitting jacket designed for woven fabrics. With two different styles, it is the perfect layering piece. It has a relaxed sporty vibe that can be dressed up or down, depending on what you pair it with.

Hove features a fully lined hood, open-ended zip closure (or double-ended zip if you'd prefer), high-low hem, in-seam pockets and pleated back detail.

VIEW A DETAILS

View A has a dropped shoulder and sleeve with a hem facing. The sleeves are designed to be worn either straight or folded back, for a more casual look

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VIEW B DETAILS

The Hove jacket View B is sleeveless (creating the look of a dolman sleeve) and has been designed to be worn over long sleeve tops and dresses, although works equally well in warmer weather over a sleeveless top or t-shirt.


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I am really excited to continue releasing patterns that work so well worn together! In the pattern shoot, we paired the Hove jacket with the Darlow pants, Collins top and Rushcutter dress.

Who is the pattern for?

The pattern is placed at a Level 3 (out of 5) on the In the Folds pattern skill scale, which means that you should feel confident using a range of different sewing patterns and class your sewing skills as immediate (or courageous beginner).

In saying that, the Hove jacket is a great entry level jacket, as you don’t have to worry about lining and due to it’s oversized silhouette, it is easy to achieve a good fit.

As always, the pattern is available in 10 sizes (A - J, which equates to Australian sizes 6-24). For more information about sizing, please visit the Sizing Chart.

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On both views, all seams are finished with bias binding, for a beautiful and high-end finish. This means that not only will you end up with a beautifully finished jacket, you will also learn some new skills in the process!

What skills will you learn by working through this pattern?

By working through this pattern, you will gain confidence in:

  • Sewing curved seams

  • Sewing pockets

  • Setting in sleeves

  • Finishing seams with bias binding

  • Inserting an open-ended zip

  • Sewing a hood


What the testers said about this pattern:

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‘As a beginner, when I first read the instructions I thought I was out of my depth, but as I started sewing pieces just magically came together, it was my most accomplished make to date and have given me great confidence.’ - Jo

[The Hove jacket pattern] ‘is really clean in the delivery. Your instruction style is spare but clear. Your designs are unique and kind of bananas in a beautiful way, so sewing this jacket up was such a delight and surprise. I just couldn't wait to see how you would have us pull it all together! And it was not only a great intellectual sew, but the way it fits is so well done. I think you're brilliant and nobody is doing what you're doing! THANK YOU!’ - Celeste

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‘The hood! The hood! It is so satisfying to have and it came together so well. I was a bit nervous about it, but it ended up being one of the easiest parts of the pattern for me. Also, pinning the long seams was a challenge (I ran out of pins!), but they were really satisfying to sew.’ - Leanne

‘I love the ease in the hips. I almost always need to grade up in the hips (29"waist, 43" hip) but it was so nice not to have to! The shoulders fit so nicely too.’ - Mia

4M1A3291-Edit.jpg

‘It was an amazing experience… I found you develop very clever methods for the finishings (the thing with the bias binding that was kind of difficult in the beginning was super delightful after I understood it, and the puzzle of the pieces (I don't know how to say this in other way) was really delightful - seeing how everything was coming together. This made me reconsider sewing all your other patterns :)’ - Juliana

For your reference, the model Marisabel wears a Size F.


New pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine : the Everyday Dress

BLOG HEADER EVERYDAY DRESS.jpg

I am very excited to be popping onto the blog today to let you know that we have just added a new pattern to the In the Folds in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine pattern family!

While we’re all going crazy for easy-wearing sack dresses, we thought it was about time we created one for you!

Peppermint-everyday-dress-1.jpg

What is really fun about this design, is that you can wear it two different ways - depending on how you’re feeling / your style! The Everyday dress is a knee-length oversized reversible dress. One side of the dress has a soft v-neck, while the other has a round neck. The dress features relaxed boxy sleeves, inseam pockets, hem splits and an optional waist tie. A neck facing is used to finish the neckline, which gives a beautiful and clean finish, as well as a lovely detail on the neckline.

The pattern is available in 10 sizes (approximately AU size 6 - 24) and comes as a layered PDF so you can just download the size that you need. More information about In the Folds sizing can be found here.

PeppermintSewingSchool42-outside2.jpg

Through the creation of this garment you will gain confidence in:

  • sewing with woven fabrics

  • sewing in-seam pockets

  • sewing facings

  • sewing a hem split

As always, the instructions are very detailed, so I’ll be there to hold your hand every step of the way!

Peppermint-everyday-dress-6.jpg

The Everyday dress is compatible with light to mid-weight fabrics. Consider using: cotton, linen, viscose / rayon, chambray or silk. We used smoke chambray linen from The Fabric Store for ours.

Please note: due to the width of the pattern pieces, you will need to use 150cm (60in) wide fabric (or wider).

Peppermint-everyday-dress-4.jpg

The pattern can be downloaded in both A4 and A0 format. This is a great pattern for advanced beginners and beyond. 

I’d love to hear what you think!

Happy sewing lovely people.

Flynn jacket : Remove box pleat

REMOVE BOX PLEAT.jpg

Welcome back to the pattern adjustment series for the Flynn jacket!

I thought some of you might be interested in how to remove the box pleat from the Flynn jacket View A (sleeve version), and have it have a flat back like View B (sleeveless version). This is a really quick alteration to make and won’t take you longer than a couple of minutes.


Step 1

FLYNN - remove pleat-01.jpg

Take the BACK [2] and mark a vertical line down through the pattern - starting at the notch on the neckline that indicates the pleat stitch line - and drawing to the bottom of the pattern piece (through the drill hole marking). Be sure to keep the line parallel to the centre back.

Step 2

FLYNN - remove pleat-02.jpg

A - Cut along the line marked in STEP 1 to remove the pleat.

B - You will now be able to use the BACK HEM FACING [10] from View B. All you need to do is transfer the notch on to the top edge of the BACK HEM FACING [10] to the bottom edge of the BACK [2]. For more details on transferring notches - check out this post.

You will need to cut both the BACK [2] piece and the BACK HEM FACING [10] piece on the fold.


I hope you have enjoyed these posts! If there is a tutorial that would like to see, that wasn’t in the series, please leave me a comment or send me an email.

Posts in the series:

Flynn jacket : Narrow / broad shoulder adjustment

SHOULDER ADJUSTMENTS.jpg

Welcome back to the fitting series for the Flynn jacket!

Today we will be talking shoulder adjustments.

View B of the Flynn jacket is sleeveless and you will want the shoulder seam to end on the tip of your shoulder. (You might want to adjust View A (version with sleeves) for broad or narrow shoulders, but it will be more likely you will need it for the sleeveless version, so that is what I will be focusing on today).

If you have made a toile / muslin and noticed that the end of the shoulder seam is sitting beyond the tip of your shoulder, you may choose to do a narrow shoulder adjustment.

If the end of the shoulder seam does not reach the tip of your shoulder, you may choose to do a broad shoulder adjustment.


Step 1

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-01.jpg

Take the FRONT [8] pattern piece. You can use the original piece or trace a copy of it - depending on your preference. If you do choose to trace a copy, be sure to also trace the stitch line (the grey line on the pattern) of the shoulder seam and armscye.

A - Mark a point halfway along the shoulder (on the stitch line). Mark another point, approximately one third of the way down the armscye. Join these two points with a straight line running through the pattern piece [Line 1].

B - Join the corner of the shoulder and armscye to Line 1 with another line, this will be Line 2. Check that Line 2 is perpendicular to Line 1.

Step 2

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-02.jpg

A - Cut along Line 1, starting at the shoulder. Slow down as you approach the stitch line on the armscye. Stop cutting 1-2mm from the stitch line (indicated by the blue dot in the illustration).

B - Cut in from the other side of the line (through the seam allowance on the armscye), again stopping 1-2mm from the stitch line. This will create a small “hinge” that will allow the sections of the pattern to move quite flexibly without become detached.

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-03.jpg

A - Cut along Line 2, starting at the point that you just cut. Slow down as you approach the stitch line at the corner. Stop cutting 1-2mm from the stitch line (indicated by the blue dot in the illustration).

B - Cut in from the other side of the line (through the seam allowance on the corner), again stopping 1-2mm from the stitch line. This will create a small “hinge” that will allow the sections of the pattern to move quite flexibly without becoming unattached.


Broad shoulder adjustment

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-04.jpg

A - Take a piece of scrap paper and place it behind the shoulder section of the FRONT [8].

B - Carefully swing open the pattern (at the place that was Line 1), using the hinge to help you.

C - Measuring from the main section of the pattern piece (not the unattached triangles), mark the amount of width you would like to add to the shoulder. Remember to mark this on the stitch line and not the seam allowance line.

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-05.jpg

A - Use the hinges to manoeuvre the triangles back towards the shoulder. Line up the stitch line on the triangle with the mark you made in the previous step. You will notice that this requires the triangle sections to overlap.

B - Once the triangles are lined up with the point and all sections are sitting nice and flat, tape or glue in place onto the paper underneath.

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-06.jpg

Re-draw the seam lines - both the shoulder and the armscye - using a ruler (and a french curve if you have one).

Re-cut the pattern, removing the excess paper.

Repeat the process on the back piece.

Take the ARMHOLE FACING [11] piece and transfer the changes to the pattern piece.


Narrow shoulder adjustment

FLYNN shoulder adjustment SMALL-07.jpg

A - Take a piece of scrap paper and place it behind the shoulder section of the FRONT [8]. Carefully swing open the pattern (at the place that was Line 1), using the hinge to help you. On the main section of the pattern piece (not the unattached triangles), mark the amount of width you would like to remove from the shoulder. Remember to mark this on the stitch line and not the seam allowance line.

B - Use the hinges to manoeuvre the triangles back towards the shoulder. Line up the stitch line on the triangle with the mark you made. You will notice that this requires the triangle sections to overlap.

C - Once the triangles are lined up with the point and all sections are sitting nice and flat, tape or glue in place onto the paper underneath. Re-draw the seam lines - both the shoulder and the armscye - using a ruler (and a french curve if you have one). Re-cut the pattern, removing the excess paper.

Repeat the process on the back piece.

Take the ARMHOLE FACING [11] piece and transfer the changes to the pattern piece.


Keep your eyes out for more posts over the coming days!

During this series I will show you how to:

Flynn jacket : Full bust adjustment

FBA.jpg

The Flynn jacket is intended to have a substantial amount of design ease, to create an oversized shape, designed for layering. For this reason, I suggest focusing on your high bust measurement when selecting your size. The size chart for the Flynn jacket can be found here.

This pattern is drafted for a B cup bust. Due to the large amount of ease, it is unlikely you will need to do a full bust adjustment (or small bust adjustment) for View A. Check the finished garment measurements to ensure it will fit through the waist and hip.

For View B, which is closer fitting, due to its sleeveless nature, you may consider this alteration to achieve a better fit through the shoulders and armhole (and also so you can close it, if you would like to add a hook and eye). For today’s post, I will get you started for doing the adjustment and then will link to a past post that I wrote about full bust adjustments.

WHEN YOU'LL NEED TO DO A FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT 

Most indie pattern companies (including In the Folds) draft for a B cup bust. There are of course exceptions to this rule (such as Cashmerette and Colette Patterns), so make sure you check on your pattern before assuming the bust cup size.

In terms of the Flynn jacket, it is a loose style which means it is a little more forgiving than more fitted patterns (such as the Acton, for example) so in some cases you can probably get away with not making a bust adjustment. For example, if your bust is smaller than a B cup, it is unlikely you need to bother doing a Small Bust Adjustment. I have an A cup bust, but have not made adjustments to any of my Flynn jackets. Also if your bust is just slightly bigger than a B cup, it is also likely you will be okay without the adjustment.

Check the finished garment measurements and go from there. 

WORK OUT YOUR CUP SIZE

Your cup size in sewing patterns may not always correspond to the bra size you wear. To be safe, check your measurements before deciding if you need to make any adjustments to the pattern. 

To do this, measure your high bust measurement (the area above your breasts, under your arms) as well as your full bust  (the fullest part of your chest) and then take note of each measurement, as well as the difference.

If the difference is 2.5cm (1") your bust is an A cup, 5cm (2") it's a B cup, 7.5cm (3") is a C cup and so on. 

CHOOSE YOUR SIZE

Now, go back to your high bust measurement and add 5cm (2"). This is what your bust measurement would be if you were a B cup and therefore the size you should be choosing from the pattern.

For example, let's say your upper bust measures 81cm (32"). Add 5cm (2") to this measurement to find out what size your bust measurement falls into on the In the Folds sizing chart (and what size you would be if you had B cup breasts). 81cm + 5cm = 86cm which corresponds to a size C. Your actual bust measurement is 89cm  though - 3cm (1") larger than the cup size of the pattern. This means you need to do a FBA and add this 3cm (1") to your pattern. 

As the front pieces are cut as a pair, you need to take the measurement you will be adding and divide it by two. For example, this 3cm (just over 1") mentioned in the example, will be split between either side of the front - 1.5cm (1/2") on each side. 


Step 1

FLYNN FBA-01.jpg

For the sake of the example, I will be making the adjustment to the pieces of View B (as this is the style most likely to require the adjustment), but you can follow this tutorial for View A too.

Take the two pieces that make the front of the Flynn jacket - the FRONT HEM FACING [5] and the FRONT [8]. The first step will be to turn these pieces into one pattern piece (removing the panel line) as this will make the adjustment much easier to manage. At the end, we'll put the panel line back in place, so there won't be any change to the design (except for the addition of the dart - which can be removed later on, if you prefer). 

Step 2

FLYNN FBA-02.jpg

A - Take the SIDE FRONT [8] piece and place it on top of the FRONT HEM FACING [5], lining up the stitch lines (the grey line on the pattern), as if the pieces have been sewn together. If you are struggling to see the lines, it can help to put the pieces up to a window and see through the paper that way (or a lightbox, if you have one). Once the pieces are correctly lined up, use masking tape (or similar) to hold the pieces in place. 

As you can see in the example, you won’t be able to align the stitch line for whole seam, as the lines slightly change directions towards the shoulder (which is what gives you a nice shape in that area). Just focus on lining up the stitch line in the lower section of the pattern (as illustrated).

B - Take a piece of pattern paper and trace the piece - being sure to include all pattern markings (in this case: the grainline and notches). Also trace the panel line.

Make sure you trace both the cutting line and the stitching line - this is really important. In the Folds patterns include the stitching line on each pattern piece so that it is easier for you to make alterations to your pattern. I know we would all love to be able to cut a pattern in a straight size and for it to fit perfectly, but unfortunately that's not the way it is (I even have to make adjustments to In the Folds patterns so they fit my figure properly), so having the stitch lines can help you make adjustments more quickly and easily. When making pattern alterations, I normally suggest removing the seam allowance, but because the stitch line is marked on the pattern, you can leave it on. 

From this point you are ready to make the adjustment. Head over to this tutorial - starting at STEP 3 and work through the tutorial.


Keep your eyes out for more posts over the coming days!

During this series I will show you how to:

Flynn jacket : Shortening / Lengthening the sleeves

ADJUST SLEEVES.jpg

Today in the Flynn jacket pattern alteration series, I will be showing you how to lengthen or shorten the sleeves.

There are times when you can just add some (or remove) length to the hem of a sleeve (when the underseams of a sleeve are straight), but in the case of the Flynn jacket (and other patterns like it), you need to add/remove the length to the inside of the pattern piece, so that you can keep the shape intact - due to the tapered nature of the sleeve. As well as this, the Flynn jacket sleeve is finished with a hem facing, so by adding / removing length from the inside section of the sleeve, the hem facing will still fit and will not require any changes.


Lengthening the sleeve

Step 1

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-01.jpg

Take the SLEEVE [3] pattern piece. You can use the actual pattern piece, or trace a copy if you would prefer to keep the original piece intact.

Step 2

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-01.jpg

You will need to work out how much length you would like to add to the sleeve. You can do this by looking at your toile / muslin (for more details on making a toile / muslin look at this post from the Rushcutter sew-along), or holding the pattern pieces up to your body and getting an idea of where they will sit on your arm (keep in mind that the jacket has a dropped shoulder and the sleeve cap does not sit at your shoulder point).

A - Cut through the lengthen/shorten line on the SLEEVE [3].

B - Take the upper section of the sleeve, and tape or glue a piece of paper to the lower section - with enough paper extending past the pattern to add your length extension. Leave some paper either side too.

C - Extend the grainline onto the attached paper and then mark a horizontal line on each piece of paper, measuring down from the cut line the distance equal to the amount of length you would like to add. In the example above, you can see the red line is 5cm (2in) below the cut line (which is how much length we will be adding to the sleeve).

Step 3

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-03.jpg

A - Attach the lower part of the sleeve to the added paper, lining up the cut edge with the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

Step 4

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-04.jpg

Re-draw the seam lines with a straight line over the adjustment.

You can choose to trace the pattern on to fresh pattern paper or tape on small pieces of paper / masking tape where you need to fill a small gap to complete the seam line.

Cut off any excess paper that is outside of the new lines.


Shortening the sleeve

Step 1

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-05.jpg

You will need to work out how much length you would like to remove from the sleeve. You can do this by looking at your toile / muslin (for more details on making a toile / muslin look at this post from the Rushcutter sew-along), or holding the pattern pieces up to your body and getting an idea of where they will sit on your arm (keep in mind that the jacket has a dropped shoulder and the sleeve cap does not sit at your shoulder point).

A - Cut through the lengthen/shorten line on the SLEEVE [3].

B - Measuring up from the cut line, mark a horizontal line on each pattern piece, the distance of the amount of length you would like to remove.

In the example, you can see the red line is 5cm (2in) above the cut line and the shaded section shows the amount of length that will be removed from the sleeve

Step 2

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-06.jpg

A - Move the lower part of each pattern piece up to the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

Step 3

LENGTHENING + SHORTENING SLEEVE-SMALL-07.jpg

Re-draw the seam lines with a straight line over the adjustment (you can cut off any excess paper that is now outside the lines).


Keep your eyes out for more posts over the coming days!

During this series I will show you how to:

Flynn jacket : Lengthening the pattern

LENGTHEN FLYNN.jpg

As I have just released a new pattern (yay for the new Flynn jacket), I thought it would be helpful to post a few tutorials about making alterations to the pattern. Yesterday I showed you how to shorten the pattern, so today I thought I would show you how to lengthen the pattern.

All In the Folds patterns are drafted for a height of 170cm (5'7") , so you might need to shorten or lengthen my patterns if you are taller or shorter than this height (although it does sometimes come down to preference).


GETTING STARTED

Step 1

SHORTENING FLYNN-01.jpg

The pieces you will need for this adjustment are the FRONT HEM FACING [5], FRONT [1] and BACK [2] (or the corresponding pattern pieces from View B). You can use the actual pattern pieces, or trace a copy if you would prefer to keep the original pieces intact.

Step 2

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-01.jpg

You will need to work out how much length you would like to add to the pattern. You can do this by looking at your toile / muslin (for more details on making a toile / muslin look at this post from the Rushcutter sew-along), or holding the pattern pieces up to your body and getting an idea of where they will sit on your body.

If you would like to add any more than 7.5cm (3in), I’d suggest adding 5cm - 7.5cm (2in - 3in) to the mid-section of the pattern (where the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN lines are) and then adding the remainder to the hem facing (more on this in STEPS 5 + 6).

Also keep in mind that by lengthening the pattern, you will be moving the placement of the pockets down. If you are lengthening the pattern to change the jacket into a longer style, I would recommend adding more length (or all length) to the hem facing (rather than the mid-section), or moving the pocket placement so they don’t become too low.

A - Take the upper part of each pattern piece, and tape or glue a piece of paper to the lower section - with enough paper extending past the pattern to add your length extension. Leave some paper either side too.

B - Extend the grainline onto the attached paper and then mark a horizontal line on each piece of paper, measuring down from the cut line the distance equal to the amount of length you would like to add. In the example above, you can see the red line is 5cm (2in) below the cut line (and 5cm length will be added to the pattern in the example).

Step 3

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-02.jpg

A - Attach the lower part of each pattern piece to the added paper, lining up the cut edge with the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

Step 4

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-03.jpg

Re-draw the seam lines with smooth lines over the adjustment. You will notice that in some cases you will be adding a little bit on to create the line of best fit, while in other cases you will need to shave a bit off. This will even out as you go around the pattern.

When marking a line over the area that has been altered, there might be a large gap between the two sides of the line. In this case - split the difference by marking a point in the centre of the area and drawing the line across this point.

You can choose to trace the pattern on to fresh pattern paper or tape on small pieces of paper / masking tape where you need to fill a small gap to complete the seam line.

Cut off any excess paper that is outside of the new lines.

Check all seams are the correct length by "walking" the pattern pieces, as if you were sewing them together. For more details on how to do this, check out this tutorial.

Transfer / re-draw any notches that have been misplaced. Due to the shape of the pieces, some notches may not line up due to the different points the alteration was made. After checking that the seam is the correct length, transfer one notch to the other piece (and cross out the notch that is no longer in the correct position).

If you need to add more than 7.5cm (3in) and have opted to add some length to both the mid-section of the pattern and the hem facing, continue to STEP 5. Otherwise, you are ready to cut your fabric with your new altered pattern pieces!

Step 5

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-04.jpg

A - To add more length to the jacket, mark a horizontal line through the bottom section of the FRONT HEM FACING [5] and the BACK FACING [6]. Make sure the lines are perpendicular to the grainline. When making alterations like this, I try to stay away from notches when possible, so advise that you draw you horizontal line slightly above, or slightly below, the notches on the side of each piece.

B - Check the position of the grainline in relation to the horizontal line you just marked. If the grainline does not cut through the horizontal line, extend the grainline (as I have done on the FRONT [5] in the example). This will help you keep things straight when making the adjustment.

Cut through the horizontal line and stick a piece of scrap paper to the lower section of each pattern piece.

Step 6

LENGTHENING FLYNN-SMALL-05.jpg

A - Again, attach the lower part of each pattern piece to the added paper, lining up the cut edge with the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

C - Re-draw the sides that have been impacted and check that the notches still line up correctly.


And that’s it! You’re done!

During this series I will show you how to:

Flynn jacket : Shortening the pattern

SHORTEN FLYNN.jpg

As I have just released a new pattern (yay for the new Flynn jacket), I though it would be helpful to post a few tutorials about making alterations to the pattern.

If you’re shorter than 170cm (5'7") this tutorial might be a good one for you! All In the Folds patterns are drafted for this height, so you might need to shorten or lengthen my patterns if you are taller or shorter than this height (although it does sometimes come down to preference).

There are a couple of other reasons why you might also want to do this adjustment to the Flynn jacket:

  • You might be 170cm (5'7") but have a shorter torso and longer legs than the pattern was designed for

  • You would prefer more of a cropped style than the original design

The Flynn jacket is designed to finish at the top of the thighs (and just below your bum at the back). Due to the design of the hem band and curved front panel, you can’t just simply cut length off the bottom of the jacket pattern as it will change the proportions of the jacket. Instead, you need to take length out from the middle of the pattern pieces, so that the proportions remain intact, and today that is what I am going to show you how to do!

As is becoming quite common with my patterns, the Flynn jacket has some very unique panel lines. This means that making alterations to the pattern is slightly different to what you would need to do with a straight cut jacket. It’s not difficult at all, and the principle is the same, there is just a few extra steps you have to do!


GETTING STARTED

Step 1

SHORTENING FLYNN-01.jpg

The pieces you will need for this adjustment are the FRONT HEM FACING [5], FRONT [1] and BACK [2] (or the co-ordinating pattern pieces for View B). You can use the actual pattern pieces, or trace a copy if you would prefer to keep the original pieces intact.

Step 2

SHORTENING FLYNN-02.jpg

You will need to work out how much length you would like to remove from the pattern. You can do this by looking at your toile / muslin (for more details on making a toile / muslin look at this post from the Rushcutter sew-along), or holding the pattern pieces up to your body and getting an idea of where they will sit on your body.

If you would like to remove any more than 7.5cm (3in), I’d suggest taking 5cm - 7.5cm (2in - 3in) from the mid-section of the pattern (where the LENGTHEN / SHORTEN lines are) and then removing the remainder from the hem band (more on this in STEPS 5 + 6).

A - Cut through the 'LENGTHEN / SHORTEN' line on the FRONT HEM FACING [5], FRONT [1] and BACK [2].

B - Measuring up from the cut line, mark a horizontal line on each pattern piece, the distance of the amount of length you would like to remove. In the example, you can see the red line is 5cm (2in) above the cut line and the shaded section shows the amount of length that will be removed from the pattern piece.

Step 3

SHORTENING FLYNN-03.jpg

A - Move the lower part of each pattern piece up to the line marked in the previous step. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

B - Glue or tape in place.

Step 4

SHORTENING FLYNN-04.jpg

Re-draw the seam lines with smooth lines over the adjustment. You will notice that in some cases you will be needing to add a little bit on to create the line of best fit, while in other cases you will need to shave a bit off. This will even out as you go around the pattern.

SHORTENING FLYNN-CLOSE-UP-04.jpg

When marking a line over the area that has been altered, there might be a large gap between the two sides of the line. In this case - split the difference by marking a point in the centre of the area and drawing the line across this point. You can choose to trace the pattern on to fresh pattern paper or tape on small pieces of paper / masking tape where you need to fill a small gap to complete the seam line.

Cut off any excess paper that is outside of the new lines.

Check all seams are the correct length by "walking" the pattern pieces, as if you were sewing them together. For more details on how to do this, check out this tutorial.

Transfer / re-draw any notches that have been misplaced. Due to the shape of the pieces, some notches may not line up due to the different points the alteration was made. After checking that the seam is the correct length, transfer one notch to the other piece (and cross out the notch that is no longer in the correct position).

If you need to remove more than 7.5cm (3in) and have opted to remove some length from both the mid-section of the pattern and the hem band, continue to STEP 5. Otherwise, you are ready to cut your fabric with your new altered pattern pieces!

Step 5

SHORTENING FLYNN-05-05.jpg

A - To remove more length from the jacket, mark a horizontal line through the bottom section of the FRONT HEM FACING [5] and the BACK FACING [6]. Make sure the lines are perpendicular to the grainline. When making alterations like this, I try to stay away from notches when possible, so advise that you draw the horizontal line slightly above, or slightly below, the notches on the side of each piece.

B - Check the position of the grainline in relation to the horizontal line you just marked. If the grainline does not cut through the horizontal line, extend the grainline (as I have done on the FRONT [5] in the example). This will help you keep things straight when making the adjustment.

Cut through the horizontal line in the same way you did in STEP 2.

Step 6

SHORTENING FLYNN-06-06.jpg

A - Again, measuring up from the cut line, mark a horizontal line on each pattern piece, the distance of the amount of length you would like to remove.

B - Move the lower part of each pattern piece up to the line marked. Use the grainline to ensure that you line the pieces up correctly.

C - Re-draw the sides that have been impacted and check that the notches still line up correctly.


And that’s it! Not too tricky, right?

In the following days I will show you how to:

Introducing the Flynn jacket!

INTRODUCING FLYNN.jpg

I am very excited to let you know that the Flynn jacket is here! As always, this pattern has been a long time in the works (I have been wearing one of my early samples for 2 years!!) and I am over the moon to be able to finally share it with you.

As I slowly add to the In the Folds pattern collection, it’s incredible to see how the pieces all work together. I don’t necessarily design new patterns thinking about collections and how everything will work together, but thankfully my aesthetic and style seems to be pretty consistent and each time I add a new piece to the collection I am thrilled to see how it fits in with the existing patterns. You will see the Flynn jacket paired with the Darlow pants and Collins top through this shoot, and see that they are a perfect match!

4M1A4508-Edit.jpg

The Flynn jacket is a loose-fitting jacket designed for woven fabrics. With two different styles, it is the perfect layering piece for autumn and winter (and maybe even spring).

One of the things I have struggled with most, when it comes to releasing my patterns, is releasing my patterns on time! I am chuffed to finally release a pattern at the perfect time of year (well at least for those of us down here in the southern hemisphere).

As it’s just cooling down here in Sydney, the Flynn jacket has now become one of my most worn pieces in my wardrobe again and I know I will be wearing it all winter long (just with a few extra layers underneath). As you can see though, it works equally well in something lighter (above sample was made in organic cotton linen) for a trans-seasonal piece.

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The Flynn jacket (View A) has a dropped shoulder and sleeve with a hem facing. It also features an inverted box-pleat in the back.

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The Flynn jacket (View B) is sleeveless and features armhole facings for a really beautiful finish (and a fun new technique for you to learn). It has been designed to be worn over long sleeve tops and dresses, although works equally well in warmer weather over a sleeveless top or t-shirt.

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View B has a closer fit than View A, due to its sleeveless design and flat back piece (no box pleat).

The details

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The Flynn jacket features a kimono-style collar, a high-low hem and large in-seam pockets. The sleeves on View A are designed to be worn either straight or folded back, for a more casual look.

The panel lines that wrap around the jacket to create the collar, make for a really fun and satisfying sew.

Who is the pattern for?

I have placed the Flynn jacket at a 2 on the In the Folds skill scale - which means that before starting this project you should feel quite confident with the basics and be ready for new challenges. I know the idea of making a jacket can be a little intimidating for advanced beginners or intermediate sewists, but the Flynn jacket is a great entry level jacket to sink your teeth into, as you don’t have to worry about lining and due to it’s oversized silhouette, it is easy to achieve a good fit.

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On both views, all seams are finished with bias binding, for a beautiful and high-end finish. This means that not only will you end up with a beautifully finished jacket, you will also learn some new skills in the process!

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The Flynn jacket can be worn open, or closed discreetly with a hook and eye.

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What the testers said about this pattern:

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‘ I need hours to make any garment. But with yours, taking time is part of the task. You never mention how long this will take until completion and it just gives me a completely different feeling during the process. I enjoyed taking the time to make a flawless, beautiful jacket vest and could not be more proud of the perfect curves and impeccable insides. Stretching myself to make matching bias binding was really nice, too!’ - Julia

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‘The STYLE LINES knocked me out. I adore the swooping front piece with the enclosed large pockets. Very 20s-30s. I love the finishing with the bindings, but I am a former costumer, so neither of these points is surprising. Haha! Also - SO COMFY.’ - Myra

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‘Because of my fabric choice, the jacket is very structured and sculptural. I LOVE THAT. I absolutely love the binding (I like wearing blazers, and am a sucker for hong kong finished seams), especially when the jacket is left open, and the wind makes my binding peak out from the facing. Probably my favourite features are the big pockets and the style lines in the front… The instructions were so clear and well illustrated that even my non-sewing husband said he could make the garment himself.’ - Emilia

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For your reference, the model Marisabel wears a Size F.


Would you like to sew along with me?

I have recently started exploring the idea of running online sew-alongs as an opportunity for a group of us to work through a pattern together. Not only is it a great opportunity to set time aside to sew, but it is also a way to connect with other makers and learn from others.

A few months ago I ran my first online sew-along with the release of the Darlow pants. I loved getting the chance to get to know lots of different makers from all over the world and sew our Darlows together, so I have decided to do it again for the Flynn jacket.

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The sew-along will run in a Facebook group for 3 weeks from Friday May 24 - Friday June 14. This means you will have a few days to get the pattern printed, organise your fabric and read through the instructions, before we get started on Friday May 24.

What is an online sew-along?

Many different pattern companies run sew-alongs, so there is countless formats and ways this can be done. As mentioned, this is something I am currently experimenting with and working out what shape / format works best for me and my customers.

If you would like to take part, here are some things to note:

  • There are no formal lessons or classes. It is just a way for us to connect as a group and encourage and support each other to work through the same garment. You can take it as fast or slow as you like, and can spend as much (or as little) time in the Facebook group as you feel comfortable.

  • In the first week we’ll introduce ourselves and support each other to pick a size and make a toile. I will also do my best to connect people to others in the group with similar fitting concerns so we can work through our pattern adjustments together.

  • I will be sharing posts on my blog for alterations like shortening and lengthening and links to other resources that I think you might find helpful.

  • I will be in the group to offer feedback and advice and will encourage others to do the same. As we will all be in different time-zones, it’s nice to know that while I’m sleeping here in Sydney, someone in the northern hemisphere will be around to have a chat with for others in that part of the world!

  • There is no deadline. Although I will be encouraging makers to make the jacket in the three weeks specified - there is no problem if you can’t get it done. The reason I set a deadline is that I know some people like a little nudge like this that makes them accountable. It is also a realistic amount of time that I can dedicate to checking in on a group daily.

  • If you took part last time (for the Darlow pants sew-along), you will know we used Slack for the sew-along. As this is still a work in progress, I’m exploring options and seeing what the best way / format is to run these groups, so will be trying this with a Facebook group this time. I apologise to those of you who don’t use Facebook.

I hope you are as excited about the Flynn jacket pattern as I am!

Makers for Fashion Revolution 2019

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I can’t believe that Makers for Fashion Revolution (#makersforfashrev) is in it’s fourth year! What started out as a little post on Instagram that I hoped might encourage a few makers to consider the impact of making their own clothes on the environment and society on a broader level, has become a movement. The hashtag now has over 5000 posts and is a treasure trove of inspiring and thought-provoking posts.

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What is Makers for Fashion Revolution?

If you are new around these parts, you may be asking ‘What is Makers Fashion Revolution?’ Makers for Fashion Revolution is a movement I started in 2016 as a way to promote the larger movement of Fashion Revolution. Fashion Revolution was born on the day 1138 people were killed in the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh. The mission behind the movement is, “We want to unite people and organisations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced and consumed, so that our clothing is made in a safe, clean and fair way.” For more information about Fashion Revolution, check out their website.

You can also read more about it on my blog here and here.

This cause is a very important one, and in 2016 I decided it was important for the sewing community to become involved in it too. As makers of our own clothing we are in a position to ask where our fabrics are coming from, who is impacted by the clothing we make and what the most sustainable practices available to us are.

To promote this cause and encourage people to ask more questions and think more deeply about what a cleaner and more sustainable fashion industry would look like, I will be posting prompts each day of Fashion Revolution Week. This will give you a chance to learn more about what you can be doing to lessen your impact on people and planet, as well as give you a chance to start important conversations with other fashion revolutionaries.

Are you in? If you would like to be, all you need to do is post the below image on your Instagram with the hashtag #makersforfashrev and keep your eye on my Instagram for the daily prompts.

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New pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine : Wrap skirt

Free Wrap skirt pattern - Peppermint mag collab

In all the excitement of releasing the Darlow pants, I forgot to let you know that I just released a new pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine. So I am popping in today to introduce you to the Wrap skirt! I have a feeling that this one is going to be really popular, as it’s a quick and easy sew for makers of all levels. And, as always, it’s available for free downloaded.

The pattern is available in 10 sizes (approximately AU size 6 - 24) and comes as a layered PDF so you can just download the size that you need.

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The Wrap skirt is a three-quarter length skirt with a waist tie, that sits on the natural waist. The skirt features front and back waist darts, french seams and a buttonhole to feed the waist tie through.

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Through the creation of this garment you will gain confidence in:

  • sewing with woven fabrics

  • sewing darts

  • sewing french seams

As always, the instructions are very detailed, so I’ll be there to hold your hand every step of the way!

Peppermint wrap skirt - free pattern

The Wrap skirt is compatible with a wide range of fabrics. For a soft silhouette, consider using: lightweight cotton, linen, viscose / rayon or silk. For a more structured silhouette, consider using mid to heavy-weight fabrics such as: cotton drill, linen, denim or wool. For the sample, I used a beautiful mid-weight linen from The Fabric Store.

The pattern can be downloaded in both A4 and A0 format. This is a great pattern for beginners and beyond.